CUCINA URBANA

505 Laurel St. San Diego (619) 239-2222

The space may be familiar to many San Diegans as the home of long standing Laurel, but times have been a-changin'.  Restaurateur Tracy Borkum has transformed the famed location into the down-economy sensitive Cucina Urbana.   The opulence that helped define Laurel has been replaced by an interior that may best be described as "hobo chic".  High tech halogen lighting fixtures mingle with wooden crates and garage sale nick knacks, creating a unabashedly cluttered and purposely unfinished environment.

The menu, too, has been re-envisioned by Laurel alum and Executive Chef Joe Magnanelli.  The California inspired Italian offerings top out at $20, a decidedly lower price point than that of Laural.  With all the buzz surrounding this restaurant's rebirth, I chose a rainy spring night to stop in and investigate Cucina Urbana for myself.

 

I arrived at 8:45pm on a tuesday night, and despite the inclement weather, the restaurant was packed.  Flying solo for the evening, I chose Cucina Urbana's communal dining option, which the hostess had pitched to me over the phone as being lively and fun.  Having spotted an end seat at the main bar, I pounced on it.  I was quickly greeted by my enthusiastic server for the evening, who warned me that this was her first shift on the job. 

 

This proved to be of no concern, as when queried with tougher questions such as, "What ingredients are used in the house made cavatelli?," she would simply flag down more seasoned servers to obtain prompt and accurate answers.

 

Cucina Urbana's communal dining areas are perfect for anyone dining alone.  Instead of feeling as if you are an island of one, alone at a table, you become an instant member in a group of energetic diners.  Friends are quickly made, menu items are discussed, and recommendations are tossed about.  These two lovely ladies were part of our band of merrymakers.

To start off my meal, my selection from the appetizer list was "Chicken Fried" Sweetbreads with wild caper berries, garlic spinach, and lemon butter ($9.50).

Let me preface my description by stating that I am a huge fan of these amazing glands of joy, and I order them at every possible opportunity.  That said, these may be the best damn sweetbreads I have ever tasted.  They had a crispy exterior that gave way to a buttery foie gras like center. The huge, flavorful caper berries

 
and the lemon butter dressing complimented the sweetbreads perfectly without being a distraction. 

 

While perusing the menu on-line, I had noticed a "family style" option offered in conjunction with CU's pasta preparations, which they bill as feeding 3-4 people.  My server explained that for an additional $18 you can receive three times the quantity of your chosen dish. 

 

This struck me as a good volume discount, so I ordered the Family Style Roasted Rabbit with house made, hand rolled Cavatelli, English peas, shredded carrots, brown beech mushrooms, and a mustard crema ($17 plus $18 for family style).

As a side dish, I ordered the Mini Potato Rosemary Focaccia Loaf with Sun-dried Tomato Pesto ($2.50).

 
When my newbie server finished taking my order, sporting a concerned look, she made a beeline towards the head bartender for a consult.  The bartender approached me with my server in tow, to make sure that I knew what the family style option entailed.  After I assured him that I understood, said bartender challenged me, stating that I could not possibly finish so much food.  At stake for me: my rep, for him: the cocktail of my choosing, his treat.

 

The rabbit pasta was fantastic from the first bite.  This dish consisted of tender gamy meat, perfect cavatelli, delicious mushrooms, and crisp fresh peas, all tossed with an excellent mustard cream sauce.  I sure was pleased that I had tripled up on this entree.  My intention was to use the rosemary potato focaccia to sop up the mustard crema, but the sun-dried tomato pesto proved to be so flavorful that I ate all of my bread with the pesto smeared on it.

 

Back to the bet....the bartender lost.  Let me say, though, this was a lot of food.  The family style option would, at the very least, provide a hearty meal for two normal people.  Near the end, when my victory was eminent, the bartender being gracious in defeat, suggested the Peach Pesca as my prize.  This drink is made with vodka, St. Germain, peach puree, and a splash of prosecco.  My only modification was to specify The Goose as my vodka of choice, and to make it a triple, please.  He chuckled, and went about my drink's preparation. 

Peach Pesca (normally $10), plus the added expense for Grey Goose, and a triple. In my case, it was the spoils of war.

 
This was a fantastic cocktail, but what really stood out was the super fresh tasting house made peach puree.  The damn thing was so big that it needed a back up glass.

 

If my experience is any indication, Tracy Borkum has created a winner with her incarnation of Cucina Urbana.  She combines delicious food, excellent drinks, reasonable prices, a fun atmosphere, and a great staff who exude plenty of amusingly quirky personality that is well suited to the restaurant's funky setting.  It all fits together into a well conceived package that makes me understand why this restaurant was packed on a rainy tuesday night, and in a weakened economy.  Chef Magnanelli's whole menu looks great, and I can't wait to return and try the rest of it.

 

Hours:

Lunch Tuesday - Friday 11:30am - 2pm.

Dinner Sunday, Monday 5pm - 9pm, Tuesday - Thursday 5pm - 10pm, Friday, Saturday 5pm - 10:30pm, 10:30pm - 12am pizza and vasi only.

 

San Diego Restaurant Reviews

Comments

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[Michael]

CJ!! you are my culinary hero my friend. Sweat breads, rabbit and a triple as a night cap....we need to go out my friend.

[caninecologne]

hi cj! wtf was that first post about? SPAM!

anyways, great post!

i still remember your post on laurel - you had the rabbit 3 ways. your pictures prompted us to go there for valentine's in 07. we tried the rabbit along witha few other dishes. very good stuff.

now laurel is CU. seems like a very lively place! the rabbit pasta sounds pretty good. as for the sweetbreads, i've never had them before and yes, its' because i'm squeamish about what they are. but what the hell, life is too short to be too cautious about eating good food, so i'm willing to give it a go one day.

sounds like you scored with the challenge and got a "tasty beverage" out of it! nice.

[Captain Jack]

Hi Michael,
You are too kind. I will happily go back to CU with you, it was an excellent experience.

Thank you cc,
I know that the glandular thing freaks out some people. If you are willing to give them a try, CU is the perfect place for you. These sweetbreads are very diner friendly, and not at all slippery, like some versions I have had. It was a "tasty beverage" indeed, you ever the edgy, pop culture maven.

[Little Miss Contrary]

Another great review, per usual :) I went there with a group of friends for Restaurant Week--we really enjoyed CU, and their extensive and very reasonably priced wine list!

[Captain Jack]

Hey LMC,
Thank you for the kind words. Glad to hear you enjoyed CU during restaurant week.

[caninecologne]

hi CJ
it's me again.just want to let you know that i went here tonite w/a group of friends (for a bday) and it was fantastic! we had the family size short rib papardelle (and a bunch of other stuff ---i'll have to post tonite's visit eventually)....that was a huuuuge portion and we were 5 people! no sweetbreads though.

[Captain Jack]

Hi cc,
It is great to hear you enjoyed your experience at CU. I was impressed by the family size portion as well. Come on CC, you need to step up to the plate with those sweetbreads :) CU is a fine addition to San Diego's cadre of restaurants.

[caninecologne]

hey CJ, i plan to go to CU again with bert.

we'll try those sweetbreads! my co-workers weren't too adventurous.

plus, bert liked the look of my italian soda bottle - the chinotta flavor. kind of like sarsparilla (tasted like a combo of rootbeer and dr. pepper) - the bottle had a buxom brunette pinup girl (vargas style). ha ha.

[Captain Jack]

Hey cc,
wow that Italian bevy sounds tasty. As for Alberto Vargas, my dad got me a subscription to playboy when I was 10 (few things could make a ten year old boy happier (well, my Honda CT 70 mini-bike was up there)). I have fond memories of his artwork. Go team cc and SWEETBREADS!

[Darren]

Hi CC,

Love the blog! Have you tried the short rib pappardelle or the frito misto? Those are winners. I think the next visit may have to include the sweet breads. Yum.

[Roger]

OH SNAPS! The Captain is back! Better not leave us hanging again, man. The wait for new posts was too painful.

Thanks for adding another restaurant to my now insanely long SD to-dine list. I swear, most places on the list are recs from you and Charlie.

[Orlando Seafood Restaurant]

The food looks awesome here and you made it sound even better. I will definitely have to check out this restaurant.

[hollywood bistro]

Pesto fever! Green meals is always a perfect dinner.

[restaurants Destin FL]

The food seems delectable on first look, and it looks like a cool place to bring my friends to for dinner with beer. There are times that I scout for good places to eat before even thinking about bringing my friends in, to make sure that they'll have a good time there.

-Danny Riddell

[frrugal.com]

This used to be my Friday night hang out spot! Nice!!

[kitchen]

Thank you for sharing. Very happy to see your article, I very much to like and agree with your point of view. Have a good time.

[Rodzilla]

Hey Captain,

Very glad to have found your site. I'm moving to Pacific Beach for the summer and have been making lists of all the places in San Diego I want to visit/review. Cucina Urbana was already at the top, but your review may have bumped it up a few spots. I'm living with a good friend of mine who is a USC grad as well, perhaps we'll run in to each other on the boardwalk. Looking forward to more reviews.

[Niel]

..it is so nice for having a night life..with friends..and goto that place..

[Restaurants Glasgow]

i m sure the nights at San Diego Restaurant will be the best nights for visitors thanks for sharing your experience.

[u]

good

[Web Directory]

Nights I'm sure San Diego is the best restaurant nights for visitors to share your experience.