San Diego Restaurant Reviews

AVENUE 5 RESTAURANT & BAR

2760 5th Avenue Suite 100 San Diego (619) 542-0394

Fifth Avenue in Bankers Hill is currently undergoing a high-rise condominium building boom, destined to place this neighborhood firmly in the high rent category. Seemingly in sync with these developments, a contemporary fine dining restaurant and bar venture called Avenue 5 recently opened its doors in this newly burgeoning enclave. The brain child of local Uni High alum chums Chef & Proprietor Colin MacLaggan (Arterra, Bertrand at Mister A's, Mille Fleurs, Ole Madrid) and General Manager Nicolas Carbonne (Tapenade, Pasquale, Dakota Grill, Ole Madrid), Avenue 5 is the end product of a shared vision that has been fine-tuned throughout both of their professional lives.

The restaurants interior, created by designer Patricia MacLaggan, is composed of the  fashionable main dining area,

an enticing lounge,

and a well-appointed upscale bar, showcasing an immense antique mirror.

Avenue 5 features a seasonal menu, offering French-inspired American cuisine.  Dining options include ordering individual items a la carte, or indulging in a five course tasting menu ($70) with optional wine pairings (+$30) selected by Mr. Carbonne.  I had the latter with wine pairings, plus an additional appetizer to be described later. 

The initial table setup features Bread & Cie French baguette slices, butter, Evian water, and in my case, the first wine pairing.

My tasting menu began with Pesce Alle Erbe Aromatiche (Marinated Tuna in Aromatic Herbs, with Heirloom Tomatoes and Infused Oils).  Wine Pairing:  Sauvignon Republic Cellars 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley.

The presentation of this appetizer was stunningly attractive.  The infused oils were curry, parsley, and red bell pepper. All were nicely flavored, but the curry proved most dominant.  The tuna was ultra-fresh, and the tomatoes were peak of summer super sweet.  All in all, this was a refreshing summer starter.

Next came Seared Foie Gras with Pear Chutney, Hazelnuts, and a Sauternes Honey Reduction Drizzle.  Wine Pairing:  Royal Tokaji 2000, Hungary.

 

Those of you that are regular readers know of my penchant for foie gras, and this succulent rendition satisfied me on every level.  What stole the show however, was the accompanying chutney.  Chef MacLaggan's house-made version has large chunks of fresh pear, along with a bright, tart, and slightly sweet flavor profile.  All this is accomplished while managing to avoid that cloyingly sugar-syrupy component, often present in East Indian style chutneys.  I can tell you in all earnest that this extremely fresh chutney has ruined all others for me.  The resplendently rich Hudson Valley foie gras, roasted hazelnuts, and this amazing chutney make for an appetizer that is a must for all you duck and goose liver fans.

My additional appetizer was Wild Mushroom Tortellini with Grilled Sweet Corn, Champagne Grapes, and Madeira Broth (+$9).  Wine Pairing:  Mark West Winery 2006 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast.

Chef MacLaggan prepares the tortellini by hand every day.  The pasta has a perfect toothsome texture, and the filling of portobello and chanterelle mushrooms bound with marscapone cheese has a rich, earthy flavor.  The tortellini bask in a luxurious Madeira-cream broth with sweet corn tops, champagne grapes, mushrooms, and shaved parmesano reggiano.  Enjoyed all together, this offering was almost sensory overload, and when I was finished there was only my reflection left in the bowl. 

The entree fish course was Alaskan Halibut, Fricassee of Mussels, Clams, and Chorizo, on a bed of Bok Choy, in a Saffron Essence Stock.  Wine Pairing:  Silverado 2005 Chardonnay, Napa Valley.

Halibut is an unforgiving fish to prepare, as it can progress from undercooked to perfect to dried out in less than two minutes.  My fillet was spot on, and had a well developed golden brown crust which yielded to the moist and tender interior of the large-grained flesh.  The fresh mussels and clams, along with the zesty chorizo, added an original character to this entree.  The coup de grace was the saffron enhanced stock reduction with its full-bodied complexity, derived from a scratch-made aromatic fish fumet base.  The reduction was so good that, once again, I cleaned my plate (a re-occurring theme for me at Avenue 5).  I would not hesitate to order this entree again.

The fish was followed by New York Steak with Creme Fraiche Potato Puree, Onion Ring, Baby Arugula, Port Balsamic reduction, and a Porcini Vinaigrette.  Wine Pairing:  Tempranillo 2003 Riviola, Spain.

A closer look at the steak and onion ring.

 

Chef MacLaggan said he chose this "superior [baseball] cut" New York because of its flavorful, inherent fat ribbons, apparent in the slice below.

I liked everything about this offering.  Artistic plating, amazing beer battered onion ring (Chef, can I get two dozen to go?) smooth, rich potatoes, and tender, flavorful, perfectly sauced meat.  If you are a beef-eater, do not miss out on this course.

For dessert I chose the Cheesecake with Mint Leaves and Gooseberry.  Wine Pairing:  Taylor 20 Year Old Port (N/V)

It turns out that Chef MacLaggan is also a trained pastry chef, and calling his creation "cheesecake" doesn't do it justice.  Starting with a creme anglaise pooled in the bottom of a deep plate, he forms a base crust of pate sucree topped with a layer of caramelized pears.  For the next level, goat cheese, cream cheese, sour cream, and lemon juice are combined and baked, causing the mixture to set.  Finally, the top is bruleed, and then garnished with a sprig of mint and an Argentine gooseberry.  The different textures and flavors made for a great dessert.  Chef MacLaggan hit this one out of the park.

In keeping with their precepts, Chef MacLaggan and Mr. Carbonne have seen to it that Avenue 5 is devoid of the usual restaurant supply products found in many other establishments.  This fact was made abundantly clear when, during a tour of the kitchen, Chef MacLaggan pointed out his modestly sized freezer and quipped "I don't keep much in there."  This subtle but telling statement adroitly conveys an aspect which I love about this restaurant.  Everything at Avenue 5 is ultra-fresh and made from scratch on a daily basis. 

Avenue 5 has all the bases covered.  The dining environment is tasteful, attractive, and svelte.  Chef MacLaggan's kitchen produces inspired and delicious offerings, blending gorgeous presentations with complex flavor and textural interactions.  Service is adeptly supervised by hospitality guru Nick Carbonne.  In pooling their talents, experience, and passions, Colin MacLaggan and Nick Carbonne have brought their shared vision for Avenue 5 to fruition.  The resulting dining experience is one that should not be missed.

Hours:

Lunch Tuesday-Friday 11:30am-2:30pm

Dinner Daily 5:30pm-10pm

Closed Monday

San Diego Restaurant Reviews

AVENUE 5 GRAND OPENING PRIVATE PREVIEW EVENT

2760 5th Avenue, San Diego (619) 542-0394

This week I had the pleasure of attending the much heralded private premiere of Avenue 5, a sleek new Bankers Hill restaurant, featuring a seasonal menu of French-inspired American cuisine.  Amidst a sea of San Diego luminaries, Chef & Proprietor Colin MacLaggan and General Manager Nicolas Carbonne treated guests to complimentary drinks and appetizer tastes.  I sampled the following items while enjoying a live performance by members of the San Diego based B-Side Players.   

Deviled Quail Egg with Caviar on Roasted Pumpernickel Round, and Fingerling Potato Stuffed with Creme Fraiche.

Smoked Salmon on Toast Point with Cucumber and Dill, and Duxelles in Puff Pastry Shell.

Caramelized Onion Tart with Gruyere Cheese and Chives, and Marinated Ahi Tuna Tartare with Wasabi Roe on Waffle Chip.

Avenue 5's House Merlot.

Roasted Fig and Sweet Cream Wrapped in Prosciutto, and once again, The Ahi Tartare.

Everything that came out of the kitchen was a paradigm of elegant simplicity.  It's clear that Chef MacLaggan paid close attention to the flavor interaction of his chosen ingredients.  If this preview is any portent of what we have to look forward to from the full menu, Avenue 5 will provide a sumptuous fine dining experience.

BREAKING NEWS

Special News Bulletin

Just In:

This reporter has learned that Executive Chef Larry Abrams has left Bar West, and in the wake of this regrettable event, the menu has been left in shambles.  According to Bar West manager, Mindi Haley, "Chef Abrams cuisine was upscale, and this is Pacific Beach," indicating management felt that Abram's menu was ill suited to, what they perceive as, the establishment's unsophisticated clientele. Haley went on to inform me that Stingaree Executive Chef Antonio Friscia will be designing a new menu, which should be in place by the end of the month.  Upon obtaining the interim menu, which is primarily a small subset of the original, it was further divulged that, "we are currently using up existing food inventory." Stay tuned, there will be more on this to follow as the story evloves.

And there you have it.  This is Captain Jack with San Diego Restaurant Reviews signing off.

Cheers

OLDE CITY GRILL

967 Garnet Ave. San Diego (858) 483-4624

I am big fan of Philadelphia cheesesteak sandwiches, so when I discovered that a new purveyor, Olde City Grill, had opened on Garnet Avenue in Pacific Beach, no arm twisting or cajoling was required to ensure my prompt visitation.  The restaurant is co-owned by three enterprising east coast transplants, Kenny Casciato, Zach Cotler, and Chris Kelly.  This group has assembled a menu that offers a variety of items, including specialty cheesesteaks, hot and cold sandwiches, New York style pizzas, giant wings, meal size salads, and platters of french fries covered with all manner of ingredients, referred to as "dumpster plates."  I had high hopes for the cheesesteaks and pizzas, due in part to the owners combined east coast acumen, two hailing from Philly, and one from Brooklyn.    

Olde City Grill is located on the southern side of the busy block, between Bayard and Cass streets.  There is plenty of indoor seating,

and the restaurant's spacious outdoor patio provides the perfect spot to enjoy Pacific Beach's ever entertaining brand of people watching.

Eager to try Olde City's cheesesteaks and pizzas, I made time for two evening visits this past week.  First, we will turn our attention to the cheesesteaks. The menu contains a handy flow chart to help guide patrons through the quirky etiquette of the cheesesteak ordering process.

 

The American (Wagyu) top round Kobe Style beef, of course, immediately caught my attention.  I had not seen this type of beef used in Philly cheesesteaks before, so I ordered it, using the chart: 1. American Kobe beef, 2. 12 inch, 3. American cheese, 4. "Wit" grilled onions, 5. None ($8.75).

The first thing I notice in a sandwich is the bread, as anything short of great, fresh baked, goods is a deal-breaker for me.  At Olde City Grill, the owners' decision to fly in Amoroso rolls from Philadelphia has paid off, due to their signature moist, soft, springy, texture.  Most hard core Philly steak aficionados opine that a cheesesteak should leave your forearms drenched in juices and grease down to the elbows. They have even coined the term, "the Philly lean," referring to a technique wherein one leans towards the sandwich, to avoid ruining a long sleeve shirt.  I have always subscribed to this ideology.  When I hefted Olde City's version with two hands, I was immediately concerned, since it failed to emit any juices or grease. I worried that this cheesesteak would prove to be dry and unpleasant, as is often the case under these circumstances.  Surprisingly, my trepidation proved unfounded.  The Kobe beef was moist and juicy, not greasy or wet.  Flavor-wise, the Kobe was robustly beefy, luxuriously rich, and addictive.  Generally, the beef for cheesesteaks is prepped by slicing the meat very thin before grilling.  This Kobe Beef is so tender that they just throw a slab on the griddle, and cut it up into a fine grain as it is being cooked with nothing more than a spatula.  The American cheese had been melted into the meat on the griddle, binding it together with the sweet, grilled onions.  I must say, if you had told me I would really like a Philly cheesesteak that did not emit juice and grease upon handling, I would have laughed.  My opinion has been changed.  The Kobe beef really makes a difference.  Old City Grill makes a great cheesesteak, admittedly while doing something different, but excellent none the less. 

For my other sandwich, from the specialty steaks section of the menu, I ordered a 12 inch Cowboy Cheesesteak with American Kobe Beef, American Cheese, RedStar Barbecue Sauce, and Grilled Onions ($9.25).

 

Below is the cross section for your viewing pleasure.

 

The unique aspect of this sandwich is the addition of barbecue sauce.  Olde City uses RedStar BBQ sauce made right here in San Diego.  The Menu reads "local guys making great sauce," and the restaurant even sells bottles to go ($4.99).

The sauce's sweet, yet noticeably spicy profile enhanced the Kobe beef's flavor without overpowering it.  Grilled onions and cheese, as before, added good dimension, making for another delicious cheesesteak.

Sometimes there are menu items that you just have to order, even though you know you shouldn't.  This was the case with the 12 inch Triple Bypass with American Kobe Beef, Pepperoni, Italian Sausage, Meatballs, American Cheese, Cheese Wiz, and Grilled Onions ($12.00).

 

Another cross section.

 

The menu proudly boasts "Go ahead, call your doctor.  You can use our phone."  As amusing as I found all this, I was not sure how these ingredients would interact together, especially since I am not particularly fond of pepperoni (I know, sacrilege).  I was pleasantly surprised.  I won't sugar coat anything here, seriously rich doesn't begin to cover this offering.  That being said, the Triple Bypass tasted really good.  The preparation begins with the griddle master breaking up the meats and onions while grilling, after which he melts in the cheeses, and mixes everything together.

The result is a unique blend of flavors, enhanced further by the pepperoni, an ingredient I rarely enjoy.  I usually eat two 12 inch sandwiches for dinner, but thoughts of that flew out the window about halfway through the Bypass.  I finished it, but that bad boy was filling.

Olde City offers east coast style thin crust pizza as whole pies, or by the slice.

Intent on sampling several of the specialty slices, I started with the Aloha PB with Ham, Bacon, and Pineapple ($2.75).

New York style pizza is all about the crust.  Olde City's has a nice chew, good flavor, and does not exhibit soggy tendencies towards the center of the pie.  The Aloha had a generous amount of mozzarella, and the pineapple, ham, bacon combination made for an enjoyable, sweet and savory experience.

Next I opted for a slice of Barbecue Chicken with Red Onions, and RedStar BBQ Sauce ($2.75).

RedStar BBQ sauce is the real star here.  Olde City applies its sauces in a circular pattern on their pies, giving the slices their signature "tiger stripe" appearance.

I then selected the Buffalo Chicken with Blue Cheese Crumbles, and Buffalo Sauce ($2.75).

This pizza reminded me of eating Buffalo wings dipped in Blue cheese dressing.  If you like Buffalo wings you will like this pie's unique flavor.

Finally, I chose a slice of Pesto's Revenge with Artichoke Hearts, Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Garlic, and topped with Pesto ($2.75).

Full flavor is the calling card for this pizza.  There is a pervasive tangy component derived from the sun-dried tomatoes and artichoke hearts.  The pesto stripes add a fresh, herbal note.  This interesting pie is loaded with bright flavors that truly pop on the palate.

The owners also operate Sunset Italian Ice across from the roller coaster in Mission Beach.  They offer their homemade ices at Olde City as well.

My choice for dessert was a Large Watermelon Italian Ice ($4.00).

 

This ice was infused with an intense watermelon essence, tempered by an equally intense sweetness, which I liked.  One quart of watermelon puree is used to make one gallon of ice, resulting in a strong ice.  Be forewarned, the empty cup may not look that big, but after my server was done over-stuffing mine, it made for a sizable serving.

The Question remains, how did these transplanted entrepreneurs fair, producing two of my favorite east coast staples.  Their pizza has a quality crust, fresh toppings and cheeses, and a good selection of sauces, all offered in unique combinations with artistic presentations.  I still prefer pizza cooked in a wood fired oven, but that being said, Olde City creates a solid, thoroughly enjoyable product.  As far as their Philly cheesesteaks are concerned, it all comes down to the basic ingredients.  The American Kobe style beef is cut fresh daily, and cooked to order in individual portions on the griddle.  This second point is important because it allows the meat to caramelize.  When high volume operations cook giant piles at once, the meat steams instead of being grilled, causing the outcome to be dubious at best (two famous South Philadelphia institutions come to mind, but I won't name names).  When describing their preparation of the top round Kobe beef, Kenny stated that they don't even need to season it.  That is a testament to how much flavor is inherent in this meat.  When you take fresh Amoroso bread, tender, flavorful beef grilled to order, and a good selection of cheeses and toppings, you clearly have the formula for a great cheesesteak.  If you are passionate about Philadelphia cheesesteaks, like me, do yourself a favor and give Olde City Grill a try.

Hours:

Monday-Wednesday 11am-Midnight

Thursday-Saturday 11am-3am

Sunday 11am-Midnight

San Diego Restaurant Reviews