San Diego Restaurant Reviews

CUCINA URBANA

505 Laurel St. San Diego (619) 239-2222

The space may be familiar to many San Diegans as the home of long standing Laurel, but times have been a-changin'.  Restaurateur Tracy Borkum has transformed the famed location into the down-economy sensitive Cucina Urbana.   The opulence that helped define Laurel has been replaced by an interior that may best be described as "hobo chic".  High tech halogen lighting fixtures mingle with wooden crates and garage sale nick knacks, creating a unabashedly cluttered and purposely unfinished environment.

The menu, too, has been re-envisioned by Laurel alum and Executive Chef Joe Magnanelli.  The California inspired Italian offerings top out at $20, a decidedly lower price point than that of Laural.  With all the buzz surrounding this restaurant's rebirth, I chose a rainy spring night to stop in and investigate Cucina Urbana for myself.

 

I arrived at 8:45pm on a tuesday night, and despite the inclement weather, the restaurant was packed.  Flying solo for the evening, I chose Cucina Urbana's communal dining option, which the hostess had pitched to me over the phone as being lively and fun.  Having spotted an end seat at the main bar, I pounced on it.  I was quickly greeted by my enthusiastic server for the evening, who warned me that this was her first shift on the job. 

 

This proved to be of no concern, as when queried with tougher questions such as, "What ingredients are used in the house made cavatelli?," she would simply flag down more seasoned servers to obtain prompt and accurate answers.

 

Cucina Urbana's communal dining areas are perfect for anyone dining alone.  Instead of feeling as if you are an island of one, alone at a table, you become an instant member in a group of energetic diners.  Friends are quickly made, menu items are discussed, and recommendations are tossed about.  These two lovely ladies were part of our band of merrymakers.

To start off my meal, my selection from the appetizer list was "Chicken Fried" Sweetbreads with wild caper berries, garlic spinach, and lemon butter ($9.50).

Let me preface my description by stating that I am a huge fan of these amazing glands of joy, and I order them at every possible opportunity.  That said, these may be the best damn sweetbreads I have ever tasted.  They had a crispy exterior that gave way to a buttery foie gras like center. The huge, flavorful caper berries

 
and the lemon butter dressing complimented the sweetbreads perfectly without being a distraction. 

 

While perusing the menu on-line, I had noticed a "family style" option offered in conjunction with CU's pasta preparations, which they bill as feeding 3-4 people.  My server explained that for an additional $18 you can receive three times the quantity of your chosen dish. 

 

This struck me as a good volume discount, so I ordered the Family Style Roasted Rabbit with house made, hand rolled Cavatelli, English peas, shredded carrots, brown beech mushrooms, and a mustard crema ($17 plus $18 for family style).

As a side dish, I ordered the Mini Potato Rosemary Focaccia Loaf with Sun-dried Tomato Pesto ($2.50).

 
When my newbie server finished taking my order, sporting a concerned look, she made a beeline towards the head bartender for a consult.  The bartender approached me with my server in tow, to make sure that I knew what the family style option entailed.  After I assured him that I understood, said bartender challenged me, stating that I could not possibly finish so much food.  At stake for me: my rep, for him: the cocktail of my choosing, his treat.

 

The rabbit pasta was fantastic from the first bite.  This dish consisted of tender gamy meat, perfect cavatelli, delicious mushrooms, and crisp fresh peas, all tossed with an excellent mustard cream sauce.  I sure was pleased that I had tripled up on this entree.  My intention was to use the rosemary potato focaccia to sop up the mustard crema, but the sun-dried tomato pesto proved to be so flavorful that I ate all of my bread with the pesto smeared on it.

 

Back to the bet....the bartender lost.  Let me say, though, this was a lot of food.  The family style option would, at the very least, provide a hearty meal for two normal people.  Near the end, when my victory was eminent, the bartender being gracious in defeat, suggested the Peach Pesca as my prize.  This drink is made with vodka, St. Germain, peach puree, and a splash of prosecco.  My only modification was to specify The Goose as my vodka of choice, and to make it a triple, please.  He chuckled, and went about my drink's preparation. 

Peach Pesca (normally $10), plus the added expense for Grey Goose, and a triple. In my case, it was the spoils of war.

 
This was a fantastic cocktail, but what really stood out was the super fresh tasting house made peach puree.  The damn thing was so big that it needed a back up glass.

 

If my experience is any indication, Tracy Borkum has created a winner with her incarnation of Cucina Urbana.  She combines delicious food, excellent drinks, reasonable prices, a fun atmosphere, and a great staff who exude plenty of amusingly quirky personality that is well suited to the restaurant's funky setting.  It all fits together into a well conceived package that makes me understand why this restaurant was packed on a rainy tuesday night, and in a weakened economy.  Chef Magnanelli's whole menu looks great, and I can't wait to return and try the rest of it.

 

Hours:

Lunch Tuesday - Friday 11:30am - 2pm.

Dinner Sunday, Monday 5pm - 9pm, Tuesday - Thursday 5pm - 10pm, Friday, Saturday 5pm - 10:30pm, 10:30pm - 12am pizza and vasi only.

 

San Diego Restaurant Reviews

BUB'S DIVE BAR 25 CENT WING WEDNESDAYS

1030 Garnet Ave. San Diego (858) 270-7269

With the economy still down, my friends and I continue to be on the lookout for ways to stretch our, what feels like, ever shrinking dollars.  On the dining front, this includes dining specials, discount coupons, and happy hours.  From the specials category, I give you one of my new guilty pleasures, 25 cent wing night at Bub's Dive Bar in Pacific Beach.

 

Located in the heart of Garnet Avenue's bustling shopping and entertainment district, Bub's has been a player in the local party scene for many years.  Complementary baskets of peanuts are served, allowing you to throw the empty shells on the floor, enhancing the bar's divey feel.

 
The many flat screen televisions mounted throughout the venue make Bub's a good destination for enjoying your favorite sporting events.  Watch out during the NFL season though, Bub's is a magnet for the local Steeler Nation.  Pittsburgh games at the Dive Bar make for lively events to be sure, but if the Steelers should lose, I recommend slipping out quietly before these boisterous fans start eying your Chargers jersey, and things get ugly. 

Every Wednesday night at Bub's, chicken wings are a mere 25 cents apiece.  To help wash them down, Sam Adams pitchers are discounted to $10, Svedka vodka drinks to $3, and if you need some extra spring in your step, Svedka Red Bulls are only $5. Wings are available in the following flavors: Buffalo, BBQ, Spicy BBQ, Honey Mustard, Teriyaki, Spicy Teriyaki, and Fire Ring.  Celery and dipping sauces of blue cheese or Ranch dressing are included.

 

Over the last few months, my next door neighbor and I have made our trip to Bub's wing night into a weekly affair.  On this evening, I ordered ten each of (from left to right), Honey Mustard, Spicy BBQ, and Buffalo.

 
This was going to be quite the tasty feast.

 

Honey Mustard

 
Let me start out by saying that across the board, all my wings were good sized, plump, juicy, and  perfectly cooked.  There were no scrawny, chewy, or dried out wings.  Too bad I can't say the same for another local establishment's wing night (hint: throw some shrimp on the barbie, mate).  The honey mustard are the sweetest wings at Bub's, and I enjoy them best alone, without dipping sauce. 

 

Spicy BBQ 

 
The spicy BBQ had a smokey-sweet flavor with a nice hint of heat.  I prefer these with the ranch dressing.

 

Buffalo

 
The taste here was on the mark with what I have come to expect from Buffalo style wings.  They had a pronounced red pepper sauce flavor.  These wings are best enjoyed with the blue cheese dressing, as one would expect.  The Buffalo sauce is not overpowered by the blue cheese, unlike the honey mustard or the spicy BBQ.

 

Sam Adam's Pitcher ($10).

The Sam Adams pitchers are large and provide a solid value.  It's a good thing that I live within walking distance, right?

 

My neighbor Shelly and her friend Sam were in good spirits that evening.

I will probably get in trouble if she reads this, but, at 115 lbs, this girl dropped 20 wings all on her own. That's ok, her waist is the size of my thigh (she must have one hell of a metabolism).  

 

The struggling economy makes for a great excuse to blow off that diet.  In the name of frugality, you can feast on 30 delicious chicken wings at Bub's Dive Bar for a paltry $7.50.  If anyone calls you out on it, just tell them, "hey, times are tough, I'm trying to save a few bucks here." 

 

San Diego Restaurant Reviews by Captain Jack

OLDE CITY GRILL HAPPY HOUR

967 Garnet Ave. San Diego (858) 483-4624

 

I believe by now that most people have felt the press of our economy's recession in some way, shape, or form.  Amongst my circle of friends, this has spurred a heightened interest in dining specials, discount coupons, and restaurant happy hours.  In an upcoming series of posts, I intend to illuminate some of the good restaurant deals that I have found in America's finest city. 

 

Let us start with the Olde City Grill Happy Hour.  This is a daily happy hour from 4pm until 7pm featuring $1.50 draft Budweisers and Budweiser lights, $1.00 12oz Pabst Blue Ribbon cans, and $2.00 slices of pizza.

 

This past Bastille Day, my buddy and I decided to throw back a few cold ones to help the Frenchies celebrate their national holiday. (Good excuse to party, right?)  Upon arriving at Olde City Grill, we started off our festivities with some ice cold Pabst Blue Ribbons, promptly delivered by the effervescent, quick witted, and down right funny Elyse.

 

Elyse epitomizes the staff and ownership of OCG, who do their best to make one feel like more of an extended family member than a customer.

Pabst Blue Ribbon 12oz can ($1.00).

 

To add to the party atmosphere, the PBR's are served "ghetto style" in a brown paper bag.

 

Pizza slices are chosen from a glass display case in which the tempting variations are rotated frequently.  Upon selection, your slice takes another trip to the pizza oven to make it piping hot before delivery to your table.

 

Pizza Slice ($2.00).

 

On this visit, I ordered the tomato fresh mozzarella basil, and the pesto artichoke heart.  I enjoyed the thin New York style crust, and both topping combinations proved to be excellent, showcasing the freshness of OCG's ingredients.

 

My buddy mowed through three slices of pepperoni pizza, while singing their praises and guzzling down several rounds of beer.

 

Flat-panel widescreen televisions line the length of the dining area.

 

On this evening, we enjoyed the MLB All Stars Game.

Olde City Grill's happy hour provides bargain prices on pizza and beer, warm and friendly service,  and current sporting event broadcasts, all in a comfortable setting that really makes you feel at home.  Also, let's not forget about the excellent patio area, where patrons can bear witness to the craziness that is "summer on Garnet" in all its ribald glory.  On this evening, OCG's happy hour (and many adult beverages) had lifted our spirits, and we found ourselves shouting "Vive La France" as though we were standing in the Place De La Bastille.

 

San Diego Restaurant Reviews by Captain Jack

 

 

POP'S JERSEY STYLE CHEESE STEAKS

1730 Garnet Ave. San Diego (858) 483-2600

(Next to VONS in Pacific Plaza)

 

Many of my longtime readers know that I harbor a deep and abiding affinity for the working class hero of the sandwich world, the cheese steak.  I was therefore thrilled when I spotted Pop's Jersey Style Cheese Steaks during a recent shopping junket at Pacific Plaza in Pacific Beach.  Having already eaten, I secured a menu to peruse at home, intent on returning first thing the next morning for the true breakfast of champions, a cheese steak. 

  

Upon arriving, I entered a bright and cozy dining space, and was warmly greeted by half of the family ownership team, Pop and his son Junior.  It turns out that this operation is run by the Guadagni family, which also includes Nunzio and Mama, both of whom have menu items named after them.  My first line of inquiry was, "What do you feel constitutes a Jersey-style cheese steak?" 

 

Pop explained that it all starts with thinly sliced marinated beef rib eye, shipped in from New Jersey.

Junior added that in comparison with a South Philadelphia cheese steak, the bread (brought in daily from Little Italy's Solunto's Bakery) is grilled longer in order to provide a crispier surface.  In addition, a Jersey cheese steak includes grilled peppers, onions, and mushrooms; none of which are standard equipment on a Philly style.  The discussion of all this food had me raring to go, so I placed my order, causing Pop and Junior to spring into action.

 

Here you can see Pop tending to the innards of my sammy on the griddle. 

Stage one of the morning's feast was the restaurant's eponymous Jersey Style Cheese Steak ($7.49).

 

On the first bite, I was immediately taken by the flavor of the steak.  It was perfectly seasoned, and possessed a rich beefy flavor that worked nicely with the melted mozzarella.  The inclusion of the grilled peppers, onions, and mushrooms made for quite a flavor explosion.  No sandwich can make it without good bread, and the fresh baked Solunto's roll filled the bill perfectly.  Pop's is a serious contender in the cheese steak arena, and if you are an aficionado, you owe it to yourself to give them a try.

The next stage in the festivities was the Pork Roll sandwich ($7.49).

 

For those of you that are not familiar with the near-mythical New Jersey specialty called "pork roll," it's a ground  pork shoulder fermented sausage product that is flavored with bacon fat, salt, pepper, port wine, and maple powder.  The finished sausage is often smoked, and is not readily available in other parts of the country.  Pop proudly imports original Taylor brand pork roll from Trenton, New Jersey.  For this sammy, Pop sautes thin slices of  pork roll on the griddle, stacks them on a grilled Solunto's roll spread with deli mustard and mayonnaise, and finishes it all off with sliced tomatoes and shredded lettuce.  The end result is far more than the sum of its parts.  The flavor of this sausage is unique and addictive.  There is a hint of smoke, a tangy sour component from lactic fermentation, and a subtle sweetness derived from the port wine and maple powder.  These three elements all pair well with the deli mustard's vinegar aspect, and the acidity of the tomatoes.  Talk about a complex flavor profile!  This decadent treat is a treasured find in San Diego, and should be indulged in often.

Lastly, I rounded out my breakfast with a made to order Homemade Cannoli ($3.50).

  

Made to order is critical in the world of the cannoli, as they quickly become soggy when left sitting.  This specimen had a nice crispy shell, and for a truly indulgent twist, the rich ricotta-based cream filling is infused with Amaretto.  Don't tell Pop though, Nunzio and Junior tell him it's almond extract.

While I was eating, two other customers ordered more traditional breakfasts, and they both looked great.  One order consisted of Two Eggs Any Style, Grilled Ham, East Coast Style Breakfast Potatoes, and Choice of Toast ($5.99).

 

The other order was the Italian Special Omelet filled with Sauteed Capocollo, Provolone Cheese, Bell Peppers, Onions, Mushrooms, and served with Potatoes and Toast ($7.49).

 

Pop's Jersey Style Cheese Steaks is a welcome new arrival on San Diego's casual dining scene.  They make an excellent cheese steak, a delicious cannoli, and their pork roll is my new favorite sandwich obsession.  The breakfast items looked great, and the menu offers a plethora of hot and cold sandwiches, salads, and Italian favorites, including chicken, eggplant, and sausage&peppers parmigiana.  I also like the fact that this establishment is a family-run operation.  Pop and the gang are all extremely friendly, welcoming, and helpful.  Many may consider my menu selections to be odd choices for consumption at nine in the morning.  I would urge them to keep an open mind.  This food tastes fantastic at any time.  My Breakfast at Pop's proved to be the real Breakfast of Champions.

 

Hours:

Monday through Friday 9:00am - 8:00pm

Saturday 9:00am - 7:00pm

Sunday Closed 

 

 

THE PEARL HOTEL RESTAURANT and BAR

1410 Rosecrans St., San Diego (619) 226-6100

 

Driving down Rosecrans Avenue in San Diego always used to take me back in time, back to another era in which the Naval presence that dominated the landscape was marked by the sprawling Naval Training Center, the many military uniform sales and dry cleaning shops, along with the assorted other vendors catering to NTC's needs.  Additional nostalgic icons that dressed the Avenue included the famous neon marque of the Loma Theater, as well as the numerous motor hotels dotting Rosecrans, built to capitalize on the rapid growth of the booming 1960s' San Diego tourist industry.  The new millennium finds much of this well-traveled thoroughfare transformed.  Gone is the Naval Training Center, now the site of Liberty Station, a modern urban shopping and entertainment complex.  Gone too is the Loma Theater, converted into a bookstore owned by Barnes and Nobel.  But what of all those motor hotels?  These period fixtures appear to be frozen in time.  Closer examination of one such motel, The Pearl,  reveals a startling discovery.  This particular motor inn has been renovated in the "late-sixties/early-seventies retro-chic" style made famous by such hotels as The Standard in Hollywood California.  To go along with its makeover, The Pearl features a sleek new restaurant, offering upscale Cal-eclectic fare, headed by Executive Chef Trey Hartinger.  

Dining service offers several seating options, including the main dining salon,

 

the bar,

and several poolside choices, including cabanas that can be reserved in advance.

 

I started the culinary festivities off with the Ceviche of the Moment ($10).

Chef Hartinger prepares a fresh ceviche daily, based on the best ingredients available from his seafood vendors.  On my visit, the star of the dish was spotted sea bass.  The lime-cured bass was tender, yet not mushy, being accompanied by cucumbers, cilantro, red onions, and red bell peppers.  Served with crunchy tortilla chips, this starter had a lot of pop.

Never one to pass on glandular treats, I followed with an appetizer of Maker's Mark Sweetbreads ($10).

 

I have no aversion to offal whatsoever, and one of my favorites is the glorious thymus gland, also referred to as sweetbreads.  In Pearl's rendition, the connective membrane has been completely removed, leaving you with nodes of sweetbreads.  Though small in stature, these morsels were big in texture and flavor, having been sauteed in a house-made Maker's Mark whiskey sauce.  On future visits to Pearl, resistance to ordering this starter will be futile.  The question really will be, should I double up on this delicacy? 

Horrifying update:  I just conversed with Chef Hartinger and was told he had to take the sweetbreads off the menu due to poor sales. To quote the Chef, "However every single foodie that ordered them LOVED them, but, those same foodies were the only ones to order them in the first place.  I'd love to sell them, we just need (more) people that would order them."  Come on folks, we all bitch that we don't have the great cuisine of cities like NYC or LA, but when a local restaurant moves in that direction, and we as customers fail to support them, we have no one to blame but ourselves.  I encourage you to call Chef Trey and urge him to bring back "The Sweeties," as he calls them.  Then, let's all make an effort to eat up his inventory (shoot, it is only $10 for this incredible appetizer).  I promise, you won't be sorry. 

Another starter I could not resist was the Candied Pork Belly ($12).

 

The pork belly had a wonderfully caramelized exterior that gave way to "melt in your mouth" layers of pork fat and meat.  Flavored with candied ginger and orange zest, this starter was sweet, yet rich.  This taste combined with a luxurious mouth-feel to land a knockout punch.  Pork fat lovers rejoice, this appetizer is for us. 

As I always enjoy a good risotto, Pearl's Wild Mushroom Risotto ($7) made the perfect side dish for me.

The high starch rice was cooked to perfection, offering up its signature creamy consistency highlighted by slightly toothsome individual grains.  What set this risotto apart for me, however, were the wild mushrooms.  Chef Hartinger uses a combination of Oyster, shitake, honshimeji, and maitake mushrooms in his preparation, and then finishes the dish off with freshly shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese  This generous side dish is a bargain at $7 and should not be missed. 

From the entree portion of the menu, I chose the Kurobuta Pork Chop ($19).

The pork chop is served with sourdough boursin bread pudding and seasonal vegetables.  My chop was a perfect pink in the center, with solid caramelization on the outside.  Chops like these can dry out quickly if overcooked, but mine proved to be juicy as well as flavorful.  The celery, carrot, and onion studded bread pudding, made using bread from local bakery Con Pane, served as a nice sponge to soak up the pan sauce from the plate, and was a welcome accoutrement to the dish. The sauteed vegetables provided an attractive color and a fresh, crunchy texture.  This offering was really about letting the quality of the ingredients speak for themselves.

The Pearl Hotel renovation has yielded a hipster adult playground.  Events such as movie nights by the pool, special prix fixe menus, and poolside bottomless mimosa Sunday brunches help promulgate a vibrant entertainment scene. In symbiotic harmony with this setting, Restaurant at the Pearl delivers an upscale and innovative culinary experience for their patrons.  Chef Hartinger's attention to quality, freshness, and classic techniques, combined with his unique preparations, make Pearl an exciting dining adventure. Concealed behind its unassuming period facade, The Pearl Hotel Restaurant and Bar is truly a gem hiding in plain sight.

Hours:

Dinner, Monday - Saturday, 5pm-10pm.

Brunch, Sunday 10am-2pm. 

  

CAVAILLON

14701 Via Bettona, San Diego (858) 433-0483

Amidst the burgeoning and prestigious community of Santa Luz sits Cavaillon, a decidedly upscale restaurant featuring regional gourmet cuisine from the South of France.  I had learned in early April that Chef & Owner Philippe Verpiand would be offering a special foie gras menu for the month of May.  Due to my insatiable penchant for these delectable bloated livers, no coercion was necessary to insure my presence on opening day.

My first appetizer was Foie Gras "Au Torchon" ($22, foie gras menu).

Chef Verpiand got the festivities started off on the right track, molding a whole lobe of foie gras in a towel, and subsequently poaching it in a house-made duck and pork stock mixture.  A medallion is then sliced and paired with a mousseline of sweet dried apricot puree and whipping cream.  Having spread some foie and mousseline on toasted brioche, I found myself transported to foodie Valhalla.  My only problem with this heavenly starter was that I could have happily eaten three more.

For an appetizer/salad, I selected the Purple Artichoke and Foie Gras Terrine ($19, foie gras menu).

The torchon reappeared in this next offering shaved over tender purple artichokes hearts and an organic baby spring mix, topped with Serrano ham chips, and all finished with an aged balsamic vinaigrette.  This creatively conceived study in exquisite tastes and textures played a perfect symphony on my palate.

Soup fan that I am, I could not pass up the Red Beet Soup ($9, regular menu).

 

The beet soup includes julienne of green apple, goat cheese, and a drizzle of olive oil.  This smooth, thick soup, full of concentrated flavor, struck me as the ultimate essence of beets.  I can say without reservation that Chef Verpiand's rendition of this delicacy is the best that I have ever had.

Another menu item I just had to try was Pot-Au-Feu ($21, foie gras menu).

This course arrives at your table in a petite, cast iron, covered pot.  When your server removes the lid, your olfactory senses are treated to a spellbinding aroma.  The pot au feu consists of slow cooked duck stock combined with spring vegetables and diced seared foie gras, topped with black truffle oil.  I loved the seared foie and fresh peas, but surprisingly, my favorite element was the rich and complex duck stock.  I could fill a thermos with that stock, and nip away at it for hours.  The high quality ingredients of this interactive presentation make for an excellent menu choice.

As a preface to exploring my entree selections for the evening, I should explain that these dishes might have never been created, had it not been for famed nineteenth century operatic composer Gioachino Antonio Rossini.  Following his great successes with The Barber of Seville and William Tell, Rossini retired at the age of thirty-seven, allowing him to travel the world in search of the finest, most decadent cuisines.  Becoming an influential fixture on Europe's fine dining scene,  the eponymous preparation of "a la Rossini" was created in his honor, featuring one of his favorite ingredients, foie gras.  This guy was a man after my own heart, and a true foodie pioneer.

While selecting my entree, I had an epiphany of sorts.  Since I embrace all preparations Rossini, I thought why not order dueling Rossinis: one traditional, one a creative interpretation.

The duel began with a traditional Beef Tenderloin a la Rossini ($38, regular menu).

My first Rossini consisted of seared foie gras perched atop a USDA Prime beef tenderloin, drizzled with demi glace, and accompanied by porcini-grey shallot mashed potatoes and asparagus.  As per my request, my steak was cooked to a perfect rare, and was complemented by a nice caramelized crust.  The same held true for the generous slab of seared foie gras.  What hit this dish out of the park however, was Chef Verpiand's flawless execution of his scratch-made demi glace.  The complex, concentrated flavors of this classic french glace, which can literally take days to create, made for the perfect finish for this outstanding Rossini.

The Duel continued with Chef Verpiand's creative interpretation, Maple Leaf Farms Duck Breast a la Rossini ($36, foie gras menu).

This entree starts with a base of creamy bacon and leek potatoes, around which thick slices of roasted duck breast are arranged.  Next, a slice of seared foie gras is placed on top of the assembled ingredients, all of which are finished with a port wine duck stock reduction.  The duck breast was juicy and flavorful, and the foie gras was once again seared to perfection.  Potatoes rife with sauteed leeks made for a tasty side dish.  The wine fortified stock reduction played well as an interesting contrast to the previous dish's demi.  While not as complex, it possessed a sweet component built up from the reduced port, which I found alluring.  Rich and delicious, its flavors melded well with the duck breast.  This is yet another excellent entree that should not be missed.

Cavaillon strikes a lyrical chord on several fronts.  The tastefully appointed dining room provides a pleasant environment in which to enjoy a fine meal without being overly pretentious.  New Maitre d' Rick Rushing is a gracious and capable host, and manages the front of the restaurant with aplomb.  Key modifications to the serving staff have pruned a controversial waiter, and on my visit the service was spot on.  In the end, what impressed me the most was the fabulous food.  Chef Philippe Verpiand orchestrates a kitchen operation that is hitting on all cylinders.  No short cuts were taken, and every menu item that I ordered was flawlessly conceived and executed, using the freshest top shelf ingredients.  Cavaillon has immediately vaulted into my top tier rotation of San Diego fine dining destinations.  Foie gras aficionados far and wide can rejoice, our beloved livers are given the royal treatment in Cavaillon's May celebration of gastronomical indulgence.

Hours: 

Dinner Daily 5pm-9:30pm.

Brunch/Lunch Sunday 9am-2pm.

STUDIO DINER

4701 Ruffin Rd. San Diego (858) 715-6400

In the corner of Stu Segall's working movie lot (think Silk Stalkings and Veronica Mars), sits this gleaming chrome and neon railcar-style diner that could have starred in one of Hollywood's 1940's period pieces.  In keeping with that theme, Studio Diner's menu rounds up most of "the usual suspects" comprising typical diner fare.  What caught my attention, however, were several East Coast specialties that had been noticeably absent on the San Diego dining scene.  That, combined with the fact that SD is open 24 hours, something all too rare in our city,  prompted me to visit on a recent Saturday night.

I ordered Stone Brewing Co's Pale Ale ($3.75) to keep me company as I perused the menu.

I found Stone's flagship pale ale to have a deep amber color, a mild hop aroma, and a firm malt flavor.  While I prefer their IPA, being able to order a Stone product at all, in a diner setting, was a pleasure indeed.

As a starter I chose a Cup of New England Clam Chowder ($3.75).

 

New England chowder comes in varying viscosities, ranging from thick to thin.  Studio's version is towards the thick end of the spectrum.  The flavor had a solid "from the sea" quality, and was not overly salty.  There was an abundance of fresh tasting clams, with just the right amount of potatoes.  Though the consistency was a bit thicker than I prefer, all in all, this was a good chowder which I would not hesitate to order again.

As I was here for the East Coast specialties, the Lobster Roll ($18.95) was a must.

This roll excelled through its simplicity.  Celery, mayonnaise, and six ounces of fresh, tender lobster meat is combined and piled high on a lightly toasted, soft, white roll.  Although the lobster roll does not boast many ingredients, the result is truly greater than the sum of the parts.

I knew a trip to Studio Diner would be incomplete without sampling the Fried Clams (Market Price ($16.95 on my visit)).

The stars of the show on this plate are the whole belly Ipswich clams that SD flies in, fresh from Cape Ann, Massachusetts.  Mine were fried to perfection, and possessed good flavor, with a texture that was not too chewy.  The house-made tarter sauce and lemon wedges made for the perfect accoutrement.  This offering was a solid rendition of an east coast favorite.

Sitting at the counter, I was witness to all the food-service action.

As you can see, the diner was bustling at 9pm on a Saturday night.

Watching the waitresses manning the shake machine throughout my meal, I was compelled to order a Chocolate Malt ($5.50) for dessert.

The malt was rich and creamy, and made me feel like I was sitting at a soda jerk counter back in the forties.  It had just the right amount of malt flavoring, and I would be hard pressed to pass up this frozen concoction on subsequent visits.

Due to the demise of Bar West's upscale menu, I am pleased that another San Diego restaurant has stepped in to offer a quality version of Maine's staple, the lobster roll.  This offering, combined with the superb fried clams, is enough to make Studio Diner a worthwhile dining destination.  While my meal focused on their East Coast specialties, it is important to note that the extensive menu has something for just about everyone.  Studio Diner features high quality food, with some unique-to-San Diego items, fast and friendly service, along with a fun and nostalgic dining environment.  Add to that, true 24 hour service, and I say, "this is the begining of a beautiful friendship."

RITUAL TAVERN

3095 30th St. North Park, San Diego (619) 283-1618

When it comes to dining out, nothing turns me off faster than discovering that a restaurant's kitchen relies heavily on frozen or prepared foodservice supply products.  I just do not understand the appeal of ordering something that I can buy at Costco, Sam's Club, or Smart & Final.  My bottom line principle is this: re-heating some SYSCO product is not cooking, and if I am going to eat something of that nature, it will be in the convenience of my own home, not in some hack "restaurant."  It is because of this maxim that I took particular interest in Ritual Tavern, a relatively new restaurant and bar in North Park.  The word was that their kitchen prepared the menu items from scratch, using high quality ingredients, and that they had an esoteric beer selection to boot.  This sounded like my kind of place, so I recently visited for dinner in order to see if the rumors were true.

After perusing the beer list I settled on the Bear Republic Racer 5 ($4.50).

Let me start by saying that the beer list is fairly extensive, with eight local micro-brews on tap, and over 40 well-chosen bottled beers as well.  Even the most knowledgeable hopheads should be able to find something that they will enjoy.  Being an IPA fan, I found the Racer 5 suited my tastes, and the 7% alcohol content was respectable as well. 

Since I am an enthusiast of ALL onion rings, great and small, I had to order the House Onion Rings with home-made remoulade ($5).

The rings featured a Kolsch ale batter, and were deep fried to a perfect golden brown.  The hand cut onions were sweet, and retained the right amount of crispness, providing a pleasing mouth feel.  These rings were outrageous, and the only problem was that I did not order enough.

Notice anything unusual in the photograph of the Ketchup bottle?

That's right, no label.  Ritual Tavern takes the house-made concept so seriously that they even make their condiments from scratch, including the ketchup, Dijon mustard, pickle chips, hot sauce, tarter sauce, and remoulade.  Besides the ketchup, I also sampled the remoulade, the hot sauce, and the tarter sauce, all of which proved to be excellent.

I am always game for some British pub fare, so for my first entree I selected the Shepard's Pie ($12.00)

 

The pie features Niman Ranch lamb and beef, which was fresh and flavorful, demonstrating RT's commitment to quality.  Other ingredients include parsnips, carrots, and green beans, all topped with fluffy toasted mashed potatoes.  I found this to be a top notch rendition of Shepard's pie.

For my next entree, I switched gears to southern comfort food, and ordered the Saddlebrush Gumbo ($14.00).

Chef Glenn Farrington's version of this bayou classic boasted Jidori chicken, Mexican shrimp, and Niman andouille sausage.  As you might have guessed, with an ingredient list such as that, the final product was delicious.  This gumbo had a thicker, etouffee-like consistency that I really enjoyed, and finished with a noticeable amount of spicy heat.  Though this was not a hard-line Louisiana style preparation, I highly recommend it nonetheless.   

I wound up my evening of gluttony with an order of Fish And Chips ($13.00).

The intriguing twist here was the use of domestic farm raised catfish rather than the more traditional cod.  The impact was that  after biting through the nicely crisped and flavorful batter coating,  I was treated to catfish fillets that melted in my mouth like butter.  While different from the flaky texture of cod, the catfish made for an interesting and tasty variation on this British standard.  Also worthy of note in this dish was the house-made tartar sauce that I would, and did, happily eat by itself with a spoon.

There is much to like about Ritual Tavern: hands on owners Mike Flores and Staci Wilkins, a cozy and welcoming atmosphere, efficient and friendly service, reasonable prices, and an outstanding beer selection.  What really sets this establishment apart from the pack, however, is the attention given to quality ingredient selection, and a strong commitment to "made from scratch" cooking.  There is one thing about this operation I am sure of, North Park's SYSCO and U.S. Foodservice reps will not be getting rich off of them anytime soon.

Hours: 5:30pm-11:30pm, Tuesday-Sunday

QUARTER KITCHEN

At The Ivy Hotel 600 F Street, San Diego (619) 814-2000

There has been a substantial amount of press coverage on San Diego's newest ultra-chic hotel, Ivy, and for good reason.  Rooms start at $450 a night.  There is an optional butler service.  Envy, the hotel's crazy-hip, multi level nightclub, features a fog screen entrance and cocktail waitresses clad in vinyl cat-suits.  Eden, the rooftop pool lounge, has an atmosphere that would fit right in at the Playboy Mansion.  There is even a temptation-driven specialty suite with king sized bunk beds, a fire pole, and a group shower.  With amenities such as these, it is easy to see why Ivy would create a media frenzy.  Conversely, not much has been written about this ninety-five plus million dollar venture's flagship restaurant, Quarter Kitchen.  Poised amidst such extravagant surroundings, it stands to reason that Quarter Kitchen's development would not have been neglected by its creators.  The culinary credentials of this establishment are amply satisfied by English-educated Executive Chef Damon Gordon.  Groomed in England's Michelin-Star kitchens early in his career, Gordon went on to head up restaurants for such epicurean luminaries as Alain Ducasse, Claude Troisgros and Jeffrey Chodorow.  The recent addition of local favorite, Nathan Coulon, as Executive Sous Chef has further bolstered the talent pool at QK.  After enjoying a private event on the premises, I was compelled to book a second visit on my own, in order to delve deeper into Quarter Kitchen's varied repertoire.

Upon entering the aesthetically stunning and spacious dining salon, guests are treated to innovative architecture and contemporary decor that is truly par excellence.

The restaurant features an exhibition style kitchen where it is possible to view the controlled chaos of culinary creation in all its glory.

   

My first experience at Quarter Kitchen involved a formal group function where-in these lovely young ladies were fortuitously chosen to be my tablemates.

Much to my surprise, the girls turned out to be sugar demons.  Towards the end of the meal, they laid down serious damage on the dessert portion of the menu, having voraciously ravaged through most of the offered items.

The following selections are from my two visits to Quarter Kitchen.  They are grouped by menu category, rather than chronologically. 

Amuse Bouche Miso Soup.

I am no expert on miso, (volumes have been written on the various forms of miso broths, soups, etc.), but I found this version approachable, flavorful, not too salty, and much to my liking.

Amuse Bouche Broccoli Soup.

This small soup was served piping hot.  The soup had an intense broccoli flavor that gained further depth and richness from a drizzle of fine, extra virgin olive oil.

Spicy Crab Soup with Crispy Spring Rolls and Chili Oil ($16).

This Thai influenced soup also came out of the kitchen steaming hot, a welcome and recurring theme.  It had a good, not too thick consistency, with flavor notes of lemon grass and coconut milk, as well as large, rich, chunks of tasty crab.  I am also happy to report that the soup possessed the appropriate level of heat, compliments of the chili oil, which really hit me in the back of my throat.  If you like spicy Thai soups, don't pass this one up.

Kitchen Sink Salad ($16).

I ordered this to get a feel for the salad portion of the menu.  It features marinated shrimp, lettuce hearts, crispy brie, hearts of palm, baby striped beets, jicama, pancetta, and house-made croutons, all topped with a sweet mustard dressing.  The shrimp were plump and flavorful, the deep fried brie was rich and decadent, and the mustard dressing made for the perfect finish.  There is enough going on in this salad to easily hold your interest, making it a great option as a good-sized starter, or a light meal. 

Caprese Salad ($14).

Heirloom tomatoes, with their inherent sweetness, proved to be the perfect foil for the tart fried green tomatoes.  Combine the tomatoes with fresh, flavorful buffalo mozzarella, fine extra virgin olive oil, then finish it all with a 25 year old aged balsamic vinegar, and you have the gold standard of Caprese Salads.

Caviar Tacos ($24).

A futuristic stand makes for an artistic presentation, causing this dish to be fun from the start.  These "taco shells" are created by pan frying thin slices of potato.  The filling consists of a mild horseradish cream, mixed with chives and finely diced red onions, all topped with American paddlefish roe.  These flavors play well off each other, with the potato, rich cream, and salty roe blending nicely.  Here, Chef Damon has conceived and implemented an excellent appetizer in both appearance and taste.  Beluga, osetra and sevruga aficionados that have not tried American paddlefish roe are missing out, as it is a delicious, affordable, and sustainable substitute for the world's dwindling supplies of caviar. 

BBQ Lamb Ribs ($16).

The marinated lamb ribs were flavorful on their own, but paired with Chef Damon's homemade BBQ sauce, they rose to a new level.  The sauce had a moderate sweetness, due in part to caramelized onions, and a bit of heat from what I believe was chipotle chilies in adobo.  The dish was also served with a moist, jalapeno corn muffin, which I used to finish off the delicious BBQ sauce.

Kobe By the Ounce Ishiyaki Style ($18 per ounce).

Chef Damon offers Kobe sirloin imported from Japan, off the menu on a daily basis, bless his British heart.  Service consists of a Japanese stone cooking grill, chopped shallots, two dipping sauces (ginger bud ponzu, and a soy sauce/black truffle oil vinaigrette), and the star of the show, thinly sliced, raw, Kobe sirloin.  Just look at the amazing marbling!

It was difficult to contain my excitement, as I used the supplied chopsticks to place my first slice on the scorching hot stone grill.

Overcooking meat of this caliber is certain to land you at the feet of old Beelzebub himself, so the cooking time should be confined to no more than five to ten seconds.  First piece to last, I was thoroughly impressed.  The meat was full of rich beefy flavor, and possessed an alluring sweetness.  I sampled a few pieces raw ("the true rare"), and they melted in my mouth.  Both sauces were excellent, my favorite having been the soy and black truffle oil vinaigrette, but using them with the Kobe is gilding the lily to some extent.  I ate most of my slices plain, after a quick sear on the stone.  Some may ask, "Is it worth the money, is it really that good?"  My answer is simply, "hell yes!"  It is not a matter of whether you should order this or not, but how many ounces you can afford to hoard, and savor for yourself.  I would visit Quarter Kitchen, if for no other reason than to revel in this luxurious delicacy. 

Grilled Asparagus with Parmesan ($8).

The pencil thin asparagus had been brushed with olive oil and grilled, which really brought out its natural flavors.  Large shavings of parmesano reggiano were layered on top, which added a rich and salty component.

Grilled Sea Bass with Herb Mushroom Risotto and Shellfish Foam($32).

The skin of the sea bass was crisped, while the flesh had been cooked to a juicy medium-rare.  The foam tasted like a seafood bisque, only much lighter, and nicely accented the mild flavor of the bass.  Execution of the risotto was perfect, which formed its signature creamy consistency, yet preserved the toothsome texture of the individual rice grains.  Chef Damon's Sea Bass entree caused my taste buds to jump for joy, and should not be missed by fish lovers.

Tempura Onion Rings ($8).

For me, even mediocre frozen restaurant supply onion rings are enjoyable, but the house-made version at Quarter Kitchen are exceptional.  The hand cut rings are dipped in tempura batter, and then fried to crispy perfection, leaving the onion moist and tender inside.  Served with its tasty aioli, I could make a meal out of these.

Veal Chop (14oz), ($38).

The menu is strong in the grilled meats department, and the veal chop is a prime example.  This beautiful, premium quality, generous cut was grilled to a perfect medium-rare, and served au jus with a scratch made hollandaise.  The tender meat possessed excellent flavor, and paired with the incredible hollandaise, was brilliant in its simplicity.

Fans of dessert will do well at Quarter Kitchen.  Intrigued by several of the many options, I decided to go old school with one of the three flambes, and chose the Hawai'ian Baked Alaska ($12).  Below, my dessert server is shown preparing for the flambe.

Fire in the hole!

The beautifully caramelized, finished product.

This dessert, made popular in the United States by New York City's iconic Delmonico restaurant in the 1870's, is given a tropical twist with mango ice cream and a Malibu Rum mango sauce.  The textural contrasts of the ice cream, coconut cake, and coconut meringue gave it a good mouth feel, and the tropical flavors were outstanding.  This is a fabulous dessert. 

The service at Quarter Kitchen is first-rate.  My skilled servers were in sync with the kitchen on delivery, which maddeningly, in many restaurants, is not the case.  The lead server, Gavin, even handled my laundry list of questions with aplomb.

Standing proudly on the ground floor of the uber-fabulous Ivy Hotel, Quarter Kitchen has a glamorous, indulgent feel.  Menu items, such as the Kobe sirloin by the ounce and the beluga caviar service, let diners know that they are partaking of something quite privileged.  Add to this the spectacular dining space, spot-on service, and top-notch chef Damon Gordon running a well-oiled culinary machine, and it becomes very clear why Quarter Kitchen in the Ivy delivers an over-the-top dining experience.  Go ahead, treat yourself, you deserve it!

Hours:

Sunday-Thursday 5:30pm-11pm

Friday and Saturday 5:30pm-12am

San Diego Restaurant Reviews

AVENUE 5 RESTAURANT & BAR

2760 5th Avenue Suite 100 San Diego (619) 542-0394

Fifth Avenue in Bankers Hill is currently undergoing a high-rise condominium building boom, destined to place this neighborhood firmly in the high rent category. Seemingly in sync with these developments, a contemporary fine dining restaurant and bar venture called Avenue 5 recently opened its doors in this newly burgeoning enclave. The brain child of local Uni High alum chums Chef & Proprietor Colin MacLaggan (Arterra, Bertrand at Mister A's, Mille Fleurs, Ole Madrid) and General Manager Nicolas Carbonne (Tapenade, Pasquale, Dakota Grill, Ole Madrid), Avenue 5 is the end product of a shared vision that has been fine-tuned throughout both of their professional lives.

The restaurants interior, created by designer Patricia MacLaggan, is composed of the  fashionable main dining area,

an enticing lounge,

and a well-appointed upscale bar, showcasing an immense antique mirror.

Avenue 5 features a seasonal menu, offering French-inspired American cuisine.  Dining options include ordering individual items a la carte, or indulging in a five course tasting menu ($70) with optional wine pairings (+$30) selected by Mr. Carbonne.  I had the latter with wine pairings, plus an additional appetizer to be described later. 

The initial table setup features Bread & Cie French baguette slices, butter, Evian water, and in my case, the first wine pairing.

My tasting menu began with Pesce Alle Erbe Aromatiche (Marinated Tuna in Aromatic Herbs, with Heirloom Tomatoes and Infused Oils).  Wine Pairing:  Sauvignon Republic Cellars 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley.

The presentation of this appetizer was stunningly attractive.  The infused oils were curry, parsley, and red bell pepper. All were nicely flavored, but the curry proved most dominant.  The tuna was ultra-fresh, and the tomatoes were peak of summer super sweet.  All in all, this was a refreshing summer starter.

Next came Seared Foie Gras with Pear Chutney, Hazelnuts, and a Sauternes Honey Reduction Drizzle.  Wine Pairing:  Royal Tokaji 2000, Hungary.

 

Those of you that are regular readers know of my penchant for foie gras, and this succulent rendition satisfied me on every level.  What stole the show however, was the accompanying chutney.  Chef MacLaggan's house-made version has large chunks of fresh pear, along with a bright, tart, and slightly sweet flavor profile.  All this is accomplished while managing to avoid that cloyingly sugar-syrupy component, often present in East Indian style chutneys.  I can tell you in all earnest that this extremely fresh chutney has ruined all others for me.  The resplendently rich Hudson Valley foie gras, roasted hazelnuts, and this amazing chutney make for an appetizer that is a must for all you duck and goose liver fans.

My additional appetizer was Wild Mushroom Tortellini with Grilled Sweet Corn, Champagne Grapes, and Madeira Broth (+$9).  Wine Pairing:  Mark West Winery 2006 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast.

Chef MacLaggan prepares the tortellini by hand every day.  The pasta has a perfect toothsome texture, and the filling of portobello and chanterelle mushrooms bound with marscapone cheese has a rich, earthy flavor.  The tortellini bask in a luxurious Madeira-cream broth with sweet corn tops, champagne grapes, mushrooms, and shaved parmesano reggiano.  Enjoyed all together, this offering was almost sensory overload, and when I was finished there was only my reflection left in the bowl. 

The entree fish course was Alaskan Halibut, Fricassee of Mussels, Clams, and Chorizo, on a bed of Bok Choy, in a Saffron Essence Stock.  Wine Pairing:  Silverado 2005 Chardonnay, Napa Valley.

Halibut is an unforgiving fish to prepare, as it can progress from undercooked to perfect to dried out in less than two minutes.  My fillet was spot on, and had a well developed golden brown crust which yielded to the moist and tender interior of the large-grained flesh.  The fresh mussels and clams, along with the zesty chorizo, added an original character to this entree.  The coup de grace was the saffron enhanced stock reduction with its full-bodied complexity, derived from a scratch-made aromatic fish fumet base.  The reduction was so good that, once again, I cleaned my plate (a re-occurring theme for me at Avenue 5).  I would not hesitate to order this entree again.

The fish was followed by New York Steak with Creme Fraiche Potato Puree, Onion Ring, Baby Arugula, Port Balsamic reduction, and a Porcini Vinaigrette.  Wine Pairing:  Tempranillo 2003 Riviola, Spain.

A closer look at the steak and onion ring.

 

Chef MacLaggan said he chose this "superior [baseball] cut" New York because of its flavorful, inherent fat ribbons, apparent in the slice below.

I liked everything about this offering.  Artistic plating, amazing beer battered onion ring (Chef, can I get two dozen to go?) smooth, rich potatoes, and tender, flavorful, perfectly sauced meat.  If you are a beef-eater, do not miss out on this course.

For dessert I chose the Cheesecake with Mint Leaves and Gooseberry.  Wine Pairing:  Taylor 20 Year Old Port (N/V)

It turns out that Chef MacLaggan is also a trained pastry chef, and calling his creation "cheesecake" doesn't do it justice.  Starting with a creme anglaise pooled in the bottom of a deep plate, he forms a base crust of pate sucree topped with a layer of caramelized pears.  For the next level, goat cheese, cream cheese, sour cream, and lemon juice are combined and baked, causing the mixture to set.  Finally, the top is bruleed, and then garnished with a sprig of mint and an Argentine gooseberry.  The different textures and flavors made for a great dessert.  Chef MacLaggan hit this one out of the park.

In keeping with their precepts, Chef MacLaggan and Mr. Carbonne have seen to it that Avenue 5 is devoid of the usual restaurant supply products found in many other establishments.  This fact was made abundantly clear when, during a tour of the kitchen, Chef MacLaggan pointed out his modestly sized freezer and quipped "I don't keep much in there."  This subtle but telling statement adroitly conveys an aspect which I love about this restaurant.  Everything at Avenue 5 is ultra-fresh and made from scratch on a daily basis. 

Avenue 5 has all the bases covered.  The dining environment is tasteful, attractive, and svelte.  Chef MacLaggan's kitchen produces inspired and delicious offerings, blending gorgeous presentations with complex flavor and textural interactions.  Service is adeptly supervised by hospitality guru Nick Carbonne.  In pooling their talents, experience, and passions, Colin MacLaggan and Nick Carbonne have brought their shared vision for Avenue 5 to fruition.  The resulting dining experience is one that should not be missed.

Hours:

Lunch Tuesday-Friday 11:30am-2:30pm

Dinner Daily 5:30pm-10pm

Closed Monday

San Diego Restaurant Reviews