San Diego Restaurant Reviews

MARKET RESTAURANT + BAR

7330 Via De La Valle, Del Mar (858) 523-0007

San Diego experienced a fine dining renaissance in 2006, and early 2007.  I previously referred to this batch of restaurant openings as "the bumper crop," and included Market Restaurant & Bar in that group.  Residing in the building which previously housed Black Horse Grill, Market is a collaboration between Executive Chef Carl Schroeder (previously at Arterra), and Cafe 222 owner, Terryl Gavre.  Hoping to harvest another winner from "the crop," like 1500 Ocean, or The Dining Room at Jack's, I ventured into North County to see for myself.

Arriving at Market on a mid-week night, I was promptly seated in the dining room, where Terryl Gavre's tasteful and creative interior design provided a comfortable and pleasing environment.  My server, Roger, greeted me with menu in hand, and took my drink order. 

Shortly thereafter, a strawberry and watercress amuse bouche in Chinese soup spoons was served.

This amuse bouche was ideal for cleansing my palate.  I was then given a generous basket of fresh bread and corn muffins.

The muffins were sweetly addictive, and the bread had a crisp crust with a pleasingly soft interior.  Along with the bread, I was served an attractive Starter Salad

that consisted of asparagus spears, fresh peas, watercress, and croutons.

From the list of starters, I chose the French Spring Onion Soup with a Duck Confit and Caramelized Onion Grilled Cheese Sandwich ($8.75).

The full-bodied duck confit went well with the concentrated flavor of the soup, which had a touch of sweetness from the spring onions.  The soup & sandwich combination was tasty, nostalgic, and fun.

Again from the starters section, I ordered Fromager D' Affonois Ravioli with Bolognese sauce, Wild Arugula, and Arbequina Olive Oil ($11.25).

This dish, with its buttery triple cream brie filling, shaved parmigiano-reggiano, meaty ragu, and ample drizzle of olive oil, was seriously rich.  Even though I enjoyed the exotic ravioli, I found the bolognese sauce to be pedestrian, unlike the version I recently enjoyed at Bar West.

Being careful not to satiate my appetite on starters, it was time to move on to entrees.  I selected Alaskan Halibut with Green Garlic Risotto Cake, Chorizo-Snow Pea Salad, and a Saffron Shellfish Emulsion ($26.50).

My palate was treated to a whirlwind of textures and flavors with this original offering.  Perfectly cooked halibut provided a canvas for the unusual and delicious chorizo-snow pea salad, risotto cake, and saffron emulsion.  This was an excellent dish that showcased Chef Schroeder's imaginative style.

I followed the halibut with Milk Fed Veal Two Ways ($29.50).

The two ways were: strudel (left), and scaloppini.  The lightly battered scaloppini was cooked to crispy perfection, served with a delicious cream sauce, and topped with roasted artichokes.  The strudel featured tender braised veal covered in a pastry-like jacket, served with fresh sweet peas, and finished with demi-glace.  Veal two ways is another outstanding entree which I would not hesitate to order again.

My final main course choice was the Cabernet Braised Prime Beef Ribs with Sweet Onion-Potato Puree, Sherry Glazed Cipollini Onions, and Spring Vegetable Roast ($33.50).

I ordered this entree, in part, due to a number of glowing recommendations the braised beef ribs had received locally.  On my visit to Market, however, these accolades proved to be unfounded.  While I liked the sweet onion-potato puree and the spring vegetable roast, the beef itself was unpleasantly stringy, and the cabernet braising liquid reduction was absurdly salty.  For me, this was just braised beef ribs gone bad.

Having seen positive reviews on Pastry Chef James Foran's work at Arterra, I saved room to sample his desserts. My first selection was the Chocolate Tasting ($9.00).

The plating of this dish was quite artistic.  The tart had an intense chocolate flavor, the macaroon was tender and delicious, and the shake, delightful and refreshing.  I thoroughly enjoyed this study in chocolate, despite my not being a chocoholic.

I also ordered the Banana & Rum Tres Leches Cake ($9.00).

This was a bit more of a mixed bag.  I liked the caramel and fried plantain, but found the cake to be dry, and not as flavorful as I had hoped.

In principle, I appreciate what Market is trying to do.  The menu changes daily, in order to feature the highest quality ingredients available that morning.  This noble mission can, however, prove to be risky.  With menu items constantly changing, a kitchen has the potential to be more uneven.  This appears to be the case with Market, as the offerings that I sampled ran the gamut from innovative and excellent, to uninspired and poorly executed.  If improvement is made in the area of consistency, Market can attain its rightful place at the pinnacle of San Diego's fine dining scene, because when Chef Schroeder is on his game, the results are truly remarkable.

Hours: 5:30pm Nightly

San Diego Restaurant Reviews

BAR WEST

959 Hornblend St. San Diego (858) 273-4800

I have written in the past about the ongoing gentrification of Pacific Beach.  The last two years have witnessed the opening of Tower 23 and Johnny V, two decidedly upscale establishments in our ordinarily dressed down community.  The owners of downtown's Stingaree and Sidebar apparently noticed the trend, and decided to get in on the action.  They have recently debuted Bar West, a refined new restaurant and nightclub, at the location that Margarita Rocks, and further back, Billy Bones once called home. 

Saying that the the old building was renovated would be a gross understatement.  The project was a frame up remodel.  The strikingly modern interior features a sleek main bar,

a swanky dining room,

and for nightclub patrons, VIP seating areas complete with bottle service.

For culinary talent, Executive Chef and Manager Larry Abrams was lured away from the Cohn Group, where he had previously headed up Thee Bungalow.  His new menu is billed as "comfort food re-imagined," but also reflects his early professional days spent in New Orleans. 

My first visit to Bar West was for a spontaneous, casual dinner while seated at the bar.  For my appetizer, I chose the Ceviche ($11).

While ceviche is commonly prepared with white fish, this version features lobster and shrimp.  The mixture is split into three dishes, and served with taro root chips.  The citrus marinade gave the ceviche a pop that really brightened the shrimp and lobster flavors.  The taro root chips added nicely to this dish as well.  If you are a ceviche fan, I think you will enjoy Bar West's ramped up rendition.

From the sandwiches and wraps section of the menu, I selected the West Coast Lobster Roll ($14).

Praise The Lord and alert the media.  A San Diego restaurant has decided to offer this elusive east coast favorite.  This lobster roll includes Tahitian vanilla aioli, crispy pancetta, and lobster salad, all served on a fresh artisan baguette.  The lobster was full-flavored, and the aioli was delicious.  Despite not being an aficionado of this Maine specialty, I really enjoyed Bar West's version, and will order it again. 

That night, I also ordered the Shrimp and Oyster Po' Boy with Southern Remoulade, House Pickles, and a side of Truffle Pomme Frites ($10).

 

The fresh baguette is stuffed with fried oysters and shrimp, then covered with their excellent remoulade, which possessed a solid paprika component.  The house-made pickles helped cut the richness of this sandwich.  The pommes frites were flavored with garlic and truffle oil, and made for a delicious side.  I am a big fan of southern style po' boys, and Bar West turns out a solid example of this Louisiana icon.

Having found my impromptu dinner quite pleasurable, I decided to return for a more formal visit the following week.

When I returned for my follow up visit, I was quickly seated at a comfortable booth.  My server, Kristine, arrived promptly to take my drink order.  Bar West has a good selection of specialty drinks.  I chose the Pears Hilton ($10).

This drink contains Absolut Pears, Dekuyper's Sour Apple Pucker, a splash of white cranberry juice, and is garnished with a pear slice.  I liked the pear-like flavor, and the garnish was a nice touch.  Just remember folks, the Pears Hilton is an alcoholic beverage, and after a few of these, you may want to put yourself under house arrest (ankle bracelet optional).

Kristine recommended the Ahi Tuna Threeways (Market) for an appetizer.

The three ways of preparation are: (left) sashimi with wasabi emulsion, (center) seared with sesame seeds, served over soba noodles, with watercress, edible flowers and dressing, (right) inside a wonton with spicy sauce.  The sashimi was fresh and had good texture.  The wonton was fun, and the ahi inside had an interesting, almost ground consistency.  The winner of the trio, though, was the seared ahi with noodle salad.  The thick triangles of ahi were seared perfectly, and the slightly sweet dressing enhanced their flavor well.

From the tapas portion of the menu I ordered the Soup Sampler of the Day ($10).

From left to right, the soups this evening were: caramelized french onion with a balsamic reduction, potato-leek, and tomato basil.  The tomato basil is a paradigm of the classic Italian pairing.  Texture was the real surprise with the potato-leek, which had both an enjoyable flavor, and a consistency that was more like foam, than traditional soup.  Intense would be the best word to describe the taste of the french onion.  This excellent soup benefits from the balsamic reduction, as well as the caramelized onions.

Also from the tapas menu, I selected the Artichoke and Goat Cheese Beignets, with Red Pepper Coulis and Aged Balsamic ($8).

I expected to like this offering, after all, what's not to like about deep fried dough?  I did not expect to acquire a new addiction.  The beignets were outrageous.  When I bit into one of these balls of joy, the crispy dough exterior gave way to a creamy-dreamy explosion of cheese and artichoke flavors.

Chef Abrams spent the early part of his career in New Orleans, and if that had anything to do with the inception of these beignets, I am sure glad he did.

My Hilton had done its time, so I ordered a second specialty drink, the Pacific Beach Tea ($10).

This drink is made up of Effen raspberry vodka, Dekuyper triple sec, lemonade, sweet and sour, and a splash of Coke.  It is garnished with a mint sprig and a lemon wedge.  This concoction packed more of a punch than the Hilton, and was not as sweet.

Being the fan of French cuisine that I am, I could not resist ordering the Duck Confit with Braised Leeks and White Bean Cassoulet ($27).

The duck leg and thigh had most of the subcutaneous fat rendered out, leaving behind moist flesh and tasty skin.  The cassoulet had a meaty richness that I found enticing.  The large white beans were cooked al dente, which gave them a firm texture.  This is a classic preparation of two French culinary legends.

For my second entree, I chose the Spinach and Salsify Tagliatelle with Lobster Bolognese ($25).

I decided on this offering when I learned that this unusual spinach and salsify tagliatelle is house-made.  The noodles themselves were cooked to a perfect al dente, and had a refined and interesting flavor when tasted alone.  The lobster bolognese ragu added intrigue to the equation.  On one hand, I could tell it was based off of a typical bolognese meat sauce, with the usual onions, garlic, carrots, and a little tomato product.  It was meaty and rich, as one would expect, yet the essence of the lobster subtly permeated the sauce, which made for a very unique flavor profile.  This is a delicious and inspired pasta dish.  Chef Abrams hit it out of the park with this offering, and I want the recipe.

Two items stood out for me on the dessert menu. The Cinnamon French Toast with Caramelized Plums and Cinnamon Caramel A La Mode ($8), and the Southern Bread Pudding with Whiskey Caramel and Pecan Praline Gelato ($8).  My server, Kristine, generously offered to have the kitchen downsize both desserts, and serve them on one plate.

The French toast (left) was a sweetened version of the breakfast staple.  The bread pudding had good texture and flavor.  I loved the whiskey caramel sauce with both desserts, and the praline gelato was excellent.

Having visited Bar West twice, I can definitely say Pacific Beach is fortunate to have this new upscale restaurant/nightclub to call her own.  The club is filled with plasma screens, state of the art sound, and high tech lighting effects that set the stage for the late night party scene.  In the restaurant, Chef Abrams has created an exciting menu, with several dishes you will not find elsewhere in town.  The menu items I ordered were executed flawlessly on both of my visits.  Service was prompt and friendly, yet not cloying.  My server, Kristine, has excellent command of the menu offerings, and provided knowledgeable advice when queried.  Bar West also offers several unique services, such as on-sand food delivery for weekend beachgoers, home delivery via scooter, and valet beach cruiser parking.  Owner James Brennan and his partner have successfully merged a seaside location with downtown-chic at Bar West.  The gentrification of Pacific Beach just took a giant leap forward.

Hours:

Restaurant: Mon-Sun 5pm-10pm

Nightclub: Thu, Fri, Sat 9pm-2am

San Diego Restaurant Reviews

 

SAU VOI DELI

7337 Clairmont Mesa Blvd. #109, San Diego (858) 292-0986

Vietnamese cuisine is well represented in San Diego.  So much so, in fact, that I am often disappointed when I seek it out in other U.S. cities.  This being the case, it should come as no surprise that America's finest city has an excellent collection of establishments offering Vietnam's famous deli style sandwich, the Banh mi.  Kirk K's informative blog has a retrospective of his reviews on many of our city's banh mi shops. mmm-yoso banh mi retrospective  One of my favorite banh mi houses however, is Sau Voi Deli, located in the Clairmont Ranch 99 market complex.

The banh mi menu is fairly straightforward.

The sandwiches vary in price from $2.50 to $3.50, which includes tax.  On this particular visit, I ordered the dac biet (special sandwich) ($3.25).

 

The dac biet features a combination of Vietnamese cold cuts, pate, pickled vegetables (carrots, and daikon), cucumbers, cilantro, hot green peppers, and a mayonnaise-style spread.    Any sandwich needs good bread as a base, or it is doomed from inception.  Sau Voi uses fresh sandwich rolls, and lightly toasts them, which I find preferable.  The cold cuts have a lot of flavor, and the pate spread adds a liver element, as well as an enjoyable richness.  The pickled vegetables deliver just the right sweet & sour component, while there are enough hot peppers to really get your attention.  In the end, what makes this dac biet work for me, is the balance of flavors.  The combination of ingredients can be seen more clearly in the cross sections below.

Another favorite of mine is the Banh Mi Bi (shredded pork sandwich) ($2.50).

The Bi is composed of shredded pork, pickled vegetables, cucumber, hot green chilies, cilantro, and their mayonnaise-style spread.  The shredded pork really makes this sandwich sing.  It is rich and flavorful, with a hint of sweetness, which I love.  The pickled vegetables do a good job of moderating the richness of the pork, while the green chilies provide the heat.  This banh mi is a good pairing with the dac biet.  Even though they share many of the same ingredients, each one has its own distinct character.  Notice the close up of the bi's cross section.

Every time I visit Sau Voi Deli, I cannot resist bringing home some Goi Cuon (fresh spring rolls) ($3.50).

The rolls consist of shrimp, pork, cilantro, mint, and vermicelli, all wrapped in rice paper, and served with peanut sauce, chili sauce, and chopped peanuts.  They were fresh and delicious, and could be eaten every day.

I also could not resist the Egg-Sausage Bun ($1.25).

These over sized steamed buns are filled with egg-sausage, that could be thought of as an exotic meatloaf.  Any way you look at it, the filling is simply delicious.  I've sliced one in half for viewing.

Sau Voi also does a brisk business in boba, and various tea beverages.

They also have two steam tables,

and two refrigerated cases, containing various Vietnamese specialties.

San Diego has many options to choose from, for those searching for Vietnamese style sandwiches.  As residents we are truly fortunate in that respect.  I continue to patronize many different banh mi vendors, depending on where I find myself at any given time.  That said, Sau Voi Deli remains my favorite.  I like their lightly toasted bread, they don't skimp on ingredients, the flavors are well balanced, and they are not afraid to bring on the heat.  Sau Voi Deli may be a small operation, but they produce a solid banh mi.

San Diego Restaurant Reviews

KAFE YEN

4516 Mission Blvd. Pacific Beach (858) 373-3936

Kafe Yen is an unusual Asian restaurant.  While most Asian restaurants focus on a certain country's cuisine, Kafe Yen's menu takes a decidedly different approach.  The menu features dishes from Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, Singapore, Japan, and Vietnam.  An ambitious plan to be sure, but if properly executed, it could bring a wealth of Asian delicacies to my back porch, right here in Pacific Beach.  It turns out Yen is a tightly knit operation, run by the Thamphan family.  Daughter Pasara Thamphan and husband Jamin Barnes are the proprietors.  Pasara's brother, Off Thamphan, is Chef de Cuisine.  Their mother, Chaisri Thamphan, is a long time Chicago restaurateur, who provides the traditional recipes, and consults on classic Asian cooking techniques. 

At Kafe Yen, you have the option of dining on their sidewalk patio, or in the stylish dining room.

When the owners took possession of the property, they carried out an extensive remodel of the existing dining space.  It now has a sleek Asian-modern feel, blending black accents with warm wood tones and green foliage.  Light colored fabrics are hung from the walls and ceiling, giving an airy, spacious feel.  Asian art pieces adorn the walls, and are illuminated by soft mood lighting, elegantly completing the decor. 

Having been seated at a comfortable table, I was ready to sample their wares.   

From the appetizer list, I ordered the Roti Pancake ($5.95).

 

I received two piping hot, pan fried Malaysian style pancakes, with a cucumber salad, and peanut sauce.  The roti were savory and amazingly tender.  The cucumber salad had a good balance of sweet & sour, and was excellent spooned over the roti.  Peanut sauce and I are old friends, and I enjoyed this housemade version very much.  This is a great appetizer, and I have a hard time imagining not ordering it again on subsequent visits.

There are six soups to choose from (not counting the noodle soups in a separate section of the menu), and I selected the Tom Ka With Chicken ($5.95).

 

This Thai, coconut milk based soup, is one of my favorites.  Kafe Yen's version was alive with the vibrant flavors of galangal, lemongrass, lime, and mushrooms.  There was a lot of complex flavor interaction in this soup that I really enjoyed.

The menu offers a nice selection of noodle dishes from several major Asian cuisines, all of which are offered with your choice of: vegetarian ($9.95), chicken, beef, or pork ($10.95), bbq pork ($12.95), shrimp, or seafood combination ($14.95).  I ordered the Chicken Pad Thai ($10.95).

The pad Thai featured stir fried Thai rice stick noodles, eggs, ground peanuts, scallions, and bean sprouts, with a wedge of lime to squeeze over the top.  The noodles had good texture with a nice chew.  In addition to the above mentioned ingredients, I also tasted tamarind, fish sauce, and red chili pepper.  The flavors were well balanced, and featured the solid fish sauce presence that many American Thai restaurants are unfortunately afraid to employ.  If you enjoy pad Thai, like me, do not hesitate to order it at Kafe Yen.   

The house specials section of the menu contains many intriguing offerings.  I personally was captivated by the description of Extreme Chicken ($16.95).

 

Here the kitchen takes chicken breast, crab meat, egg, spinach, and sesame seeds, wraps them all together, then deep fries them until golden brown.  The result is then served with broccoli, baby carrots, Chinese eggplant, Thai squash slices, and a delicious peanut sauce.  I am not sure where the inspiration for this dish came from (Chef Off?), but hats off to whoever is responsible.  The crispy exterior of the "croquette," gives way to a tender, delicious filling when bitten into.  Add in the peanut sauce, with bites of squash and eggplant, and the result is over the top.  This is a unique dish that I have no qualms about recommending.

I absolutely love fresh Vietnamese Spring Rolls ($7.95), so I ordered some to go, planning ahead for a midnight snack.

The first thing I noticed about these spring rolls were their size.  The rolls were almost twice as long as the ones I am used to.  They were filled with shrimp, imitation crab, fresh cilantro, fresh basil, and noodles.  The noodles had good texture, and the rice paper wrapping was cellophane thin and very tender.  As I mentioned before, the housemade peanut sauce is very good, and of course, it went well with the rolls.  These made an excellent snack, and did not survive until midnight.

Kafe Yen is an excellent source for Asian cuisine in Pacific Beach, as well as in San Diego at large.  I so often hear foodies complain about San Diego's Thai restaurants producing "dumbed down food" by skipping key ingredients like galangal, Thai eggplant, and kafir lime leaves, because of their expense.  I am happy to report that Kafe Yen does not skip these important ingredients, even though technically, they are not a Thai restaurant.  Unlike many small Asian restaurants, Kafe Yen's kitchen runs at a professional level seldom found in operations of this size.  The kitchen staff smacks of culinary schooling, combined with industry experience.  The service staff is knowledgeable, friendly, and efficient.

The restaurant's decor and ambiance are well suited for romantic dates, demonstrating the ongoing gentrification of our beach town.  Kafe Yen combines traditional and inovative recipes with high quality ingredients and skilled technical execution,  to produce a plethora of delectable Pan-Asian specialties, all under one roof.

Hours:

M-Th 11:30AM-3:30PM, 5PM-9:30Pm

F 11:30AM-3:30Pm, 5PM-10PM

Sa Noon-10PM

Su Noon-9:30PM

San Diego Restaurant Reviews

BARNEY GREENGRASS

541 Amsterdam Ave. (at 86th St.), New York, NY (212) 724-4707

When it comes to delicatessens, few would argue that New York City's five boroughs set the standard.  With so many fine establishments to choose from, arguments tend to form around such issues as who cures the best pastrami, or who brews the best matzo ball soup.  When talk turns to smoked fish, however, all eyes are on Manhattan's upper west side.  It is there, that legendary Barney Greengrass has been plying their brand of magic since 1908.  Known fondly as the "Sturgeon King," Barney's is also considered to be the holy grail for many other varieties of smoked fish and deli specialties.  My eating adventure in NYC would not have been complete without a visit to BG, which is why I recently found myself there on a cold, weekday morning, lusting after the culinary treasures I knew lay within.

Upon entering, the decor would appear dated to most people.  I believe this is a deliberate attempt to match the dining atmosphere to the "cranky, but lovable" service, producing the quintessential New York deli experience.  Hey, they had a coat rack I could keep my eye on, and an empty table for me to sit at, so my basic needs had been met.  Breakfast for me is rarely about bacon and eggs, and although Barney's does offer these items, that's not where I was going.  My breakfast was going to start with the Homemade Whitefish Salad ($9.00).

The salad is served with sliced tomato, sliced white onion, olives, half sour pickle, a wedge of lemon, and your choice of bialy, bagel, or rye bread.  My selection was the rye.  I absolutely adore whitefish salad, and am constantly ordering it when available.  The problem is, my high expectations are rarely met.  Although the preparation seems straight forward, the devil lies in the details, and in this case, the details are smoked fish.  Being that BG is a master fish smoking house, it was no surprise that they excelled in this dish.  There is a is a rich, smoky, almost sweet subtlety to the whitefish salad that I find irresistible.  Barney Greengrass's smoked whitefish salad is the standard by which I measure all others.  It is the best I have ever had. 

Along side the whitefish salad, I ordered another one of my all time favorite deli items, Homemade Chopped Chicken Liver ($7.50).

Despite being raised Catholic, by the time I turned fifteen, I had been to more bar mitzvahs than I could count.  The sizeable Jewish segment of my community gave me excellent exposure to many of their ethnic delicacies.  I will never forget during graduate school, being invited to Seder at my childhood friend's parents' house.  His mother made the most fabulous chopped chicken liver that I had ever had.  Being an aspiring cook, I asked, "What's your secret?"  She smiled and said, "It's the schmaltz."  For those of you who don't know, schmaltz is Yiddish for chicken fat.  Since then, I have used my friend's mother's chopped chicken liver as the benchmark for comparison. After my last trip to Barney Greengrass, however, I was forced to  admit that I had found a definite contender for the throne.

   

BG's version has the requisite, robust, liver flavor, made even more sinfully rich by a generous addition of schmaltz.  What put this over the top, though, were the chunks of liver permeating the whole mix.  This really added to the mouth feel.  Barney Greengrass's homemade chopped chicken liver is the best!

After breakfast, I sidled up to the deli counter to check out the foodie booty.

 

Seen here are: home made blintzes, kippered salmon,

 

sturgeon,

chubs, brook trout,

 

Western Nova Scotia salmon,

 

gravlox, pastrami salmon,

 

chopped chicken liver, and various traditional salads.

 

Here you can see all the price boards.

 

Photographing the price boards quickly got the attention of Moe, the owner.  He queried, "Who are you working for, are you stealing my pricing?"  I quickly told him I was here from San Diego on vacation, pointing to my cargo shorts.  Moe said, "My god boy, didn't you get the memo? It's thirty nine degrees out this morning."  I informed him that my North Face jacket system kept me warm, and the shorts were a SoCal thing.  He found this amusing, and turned out to be quite a friendly guy.

Barney Greengrass is a Manhattan deli institution that should not be missed on any visit to NYC.  I would pay dearly to have a branch in Pacific Beach (there is one in Beverly Hills, though I have not been).  Take heart, however, this old school upper westsider has an on-line store that offers many of the products that have made, and continue to make, it famous. Barney Greengrass Website  God bless Fed-Ex overnight express.

Hours: Mon-Fri 8:30am-4pm Sa,Su 8:30am-5pm

San Diego Restaurant Reviews   

LIMONZ ROSTIZADOS

978 Garnet Ave. San Diego (858) 605-0093

I have called Pacific Beach my home since February of 2002.  A typical week includes daily strolls down the town's main drag, Garnet Ave.  These walks give me a chance to keep my fingers on the pulse of the myriad businesses that line the street.  In late Spring of 2006 I noticed a major remodel had been undertaken in the space next to Zanzibar Cafe, near Garnet's intersection with Cass St.  Hoping for a strong addition to the Pacific Beach dining scene, I patiently waited for Limonz Rostizados' grand opening in February 2007.  The remodel of the space was extensive and complete.  The new decor is hip, modern, and colorful, with the signature lime green and yellow (limonz), being the predominant colors in the dining area.

Here the you can see the color scheme carried to the self serve beverage area,

and the menu as well (double click to enlarge).

Living in balmy Southern California allows for year round outdoor dining, and Limonz delivers on this front with a comfortable, sidewalk dining option.  People watching does not get much better than Garnet Ave. in PB (from the procession of stunning beach babes, to the entertaining homeless crazies, it is our own little captivating show).

Rostizados means roasted in Spanish, and let me tell you, Limonz knows how to roast.  The centerpiece of the kitchen area is a German made, state of the art, Rational SCC 62 Self Cooking Center gas oven (msrp $21,010).

   

This bad boy is a convection oven that cooks with both dry heat, and steam.  Limonz uses this beast to roast their citrus-spice marinated chicken.  I ordered the Half chicken with house made tortillas, a double side of fideos secos, house made guacamole, cheese, and nopales salsa fresca ($6.99).

The combination of dry heat and steam used in the roasting process, produces chicken flesh that is moist and juicy, and skin that is nicely caramelized and crispy.  The fideos secos (Mexican spicy pasta) is visible to the bottom of the photograph only, as most of it is covered with cheese.  It is angel hair pasta cooked in a tomato-chipotle sauce, which has a nice bite.  The salsa fresca features nopales (prickly pear cactus pads), which puts this condiment over the top.  The guacamole is also top notch, with hints of cumin, lime, and cilantro.  The roasted chicken at Limonz is fantastic.  The combination of the marinade, and the Rational oven's cooking process, accomplishes amazing results.

Limonz also offers tacos and burritos that start with a house made 8" tortilla, and your choice of roasted chicken, pork carnitas, beef carne asada, veggies or cheese.  The fun jumps to the next level when you move to the assembly line, and add in the condiments which include some unusual, and tasty alternatives.

The condiments consist of the following: black beans, cilantro rice, urban corn (corn, onions, epezote, and jalapenos), lard free refried beans with beef chorizo, fajitas veggies (sauteed onions, mushrooms, red and green bell peppers), fideos secos (pan fried angel hair pasta cooked in a tomato-chipotle sauce), and poblano chili rajas (roasted poblano peppers, roasted red and green bell peppers, all sauteed with onions, and garlic,  then cooked with cream and mozzarella cheese).

Next, you move on to the garnish station.

 

The garnish selections are: onions, cilantro, tomatoes, cheese, house made guacamole, lettuce, cucumbers, limes, sour cream, salsa fresca with nopales, jalapenos, and a mixture of pickled jalapenos, habaneros, and onions.

Last, but certainly not least, you get to choose from an intriguing selection of house made salsas.

You can choose from: achiote (orange), (from the Yucatan, made from annatto seeds, with orange juice, vinegar, and onion), tomato-chipotle (red), mango-habanero (yellow), spicy peanut-chipotle (tan), cilantro-basil-tomatillo (green), and jicama with Japanese red peppers.

With all this at my disposal, I was a bit overwhelmed.  Fortunately the manager Nick, proved to be a knowledgeable guide, who has a talent for combining all these flavors together.  He helped me choose three different taco combinations that I call "Nick's picks."  Tacos ($2.99 each).

Here are all three photographed together.

The bottom taco is roasted chicken, black beans, cilantro rice, jalapenos, salsa fresca, cilantro, guacamole, cilantro-basil-tomatillo salsa, and sour cream.

 

The theme was cilantro and the flavor went well with the chicken and black beans.  I loved the salsa fresca with the nopales, the guacamole was great, and the jalapenos gave a noticeable amount of heat.

Opened up for display, the middle taco combined pork carnitas, fideos secos, urban corn, cucumbers, and tomato-chipotle salsa.

Here Nick used the chipotle in the fideos secos, and the chipotle in the salsa as the unifying element.  The nicely flavored carnitas were excellent, and went well with the spicy pasta.  I also really liked the tomato-chipotle salsa.  This was a great taco.

Last in my Nick's picks trilogy, the taco on top consisted of roasted chicken, refried beans, poblano chili rajas, cucumbers, and tomatoes.

If this taco had a theme it would be "the poblano chili rajas is so good, I could eat it on shoe leather."  I am not kidding folks, what ever you concoct at Limonz, find a way to work in the poblano rajas with something you order.  It is rich, creamy, and spicy all at the same time.  Since I have not mentioned this already, the flour tortillas at Limonz are scrumptious.  They are tender, well crisped on the grill, and have just the right mouth feel. 

After becoming familiar with all of the ingredient options thanks to Nick, the next night I felt confident enough create my own tacos (heh-heh, let's face it, Nick had the night off).  I ordered two tacos (again $2.99 each) and a burrito ($4.99).

The taco on the left was carnitas, fideos secos, cilantro rice, and lots of cheese.  On the right, was roasted chicken, poblano rajas, onions, tomatoes, and more cheese.  This time I ordered the mango-habanero salsa, but on the side.  Both combinations were excellent.  The mango-habanero proved to be my favorite salsa.  I am finding you just can't go wrong if you include either the fideos secos, or the poblano rajas as one of the ingredients in your taco.

For the burrito I started with roasted chicken, then added cilantro rice, poblano chili rajas, salsa fresca, cheese, mango-habanero salsa, and the pickled mixture of jalapenos, onions, and habaneros.  This combination had serious heat due to the pickled mixture, the habanero sauce, and the rajas.  If you decide to add the pickled mixture be for-warned, it is fiery.  I enjoyed this burrito a lot since I like spicy food,  but my mouth was on fire for another twenty minutes after I finished it.

On a subsequent evening, I called ahead and ordered a whole roasted chicken with sides of fideos secos with cheese, and poblano chili rajas ($10.99), to pick up at 8pm.

I could taste the results of the citrus-spice marinade in the chicken's flesh, and skin.  This chicken was bursting with juices, and its beautifully caramelized skin was very tasty.  The rajas and the pasta remained my favorite side dishes, and I noticed Limonz really upped the portion size when ordered with the whole chicken.  Putting it simply, the whole roasted chicken at Limonz is excellent.

Now that I have dined at Limonz Rostizados on numerous occasions, I can tell you without reserve, they have surpassed all my expectations.  Owners Juan and Bobby Pasalagua have have taken authentic Mexican flavors, fresh ingredients, a high tech kitchen, and their own, proprietary recipes, and combined them together to create some extremely enjoyable offerings.  The menu reflects a philosophy of focus.  What Limonz does, it does well.  As an added bonus, they are open until 3am Thursday through Saturday (nice huh?).  Limonz Rostizados is a valuable addition to the Pacific Beach dining scene.  I highly recommend you give them a try.

Hours:

Sun-Wed: 11am-close (8pm-9pm depending on customer volume).

Thurs-Sat: 11am-3am.

Breakfast: Sat, Sun from 7am.

San Diego Restaurant Reviews 

TAPENADE

7612 Fay Ave, La Jolla (858) 551-7500

Recently, there has been a lot of talk about the evolving fine dining scene in San Diego.  The past 12 months have borne witness to the openings of Jack's La Jolla, Cavaillon, Addison, Blanca, 1500 Ocean, and Market, all welcome additions to our restaurant arsenal.  We have reaped a bumper crop, and the future of fine dining in San Diego looks bright indeed.  This recent trend is exciting, and I believe it is actually rooted in two major events that occurred in the 1990's.  June of 1994 saw Bernard Guillas take the culinary helm of the La Jolla Beach and Tennis Club, including the landmark Marine Room.  Four years later, Jean-Michel Diot came to San Diego and opened Tapenade in La Jolla.  The ensuing success of these chefs and their respective dining establishments paved the way for the restaurant renaissance San Diego is enjoying today.  With this in mind, I visited Tapenade twice in January, to see how Chef Diot's Grande Dame was faring as she approached her ninth birthday.

Tapenade started my meal off with a tasty, complimentary, vegetarian amuse bouche.

 

This refreshing starter is cleverly served in Chinese soup spoons.

Next to arrive was a basket of fresh, crusty french bread.

The bread was served with the restaurant's eponymous olive spread.

The condiment was finely ground, and had solid black olive, caper, and anchovy flavors.  This little pot of gold did not last long.

I found the appetizer section of the menu quite intriguing.  The following were the selections I deemed most notable, and several of them reflect that my visits were at the height of the Perigord black truffle (tuber melanosporum) season. 

Salade de Betterave, Roquette, Fromage de Chevre ($11.95).  (Yellow and Red Beets with Arugula Lettuce Salad, and Warm Goat Cheese).

Here, red and yellow beets are joined by a salad of arugula lettuce and warm goat cheese.  The sweetness of the beets complimented the rich flavor of the goat cheese.  I also loved the presentation of this offering.

Terrine de Poireaux, Truffe Suprise, Vinaigrette Truffes ($24.00).  (Young Leeks Terrine, with Black Truffle Suprise).

This terrine was studded with tender pieces of leek, and wrapped in a leek "skin."  Generous slices of Perigord black truffles were shaved over the top.  The terrine had an excellent flavor and texture, and the strong, earthy shaved truffles and truffle vinaigrette put this over the top.  Just look at the beautiful, finely veined truffle slices.  Whole, fresh Perigord blacks ran $70.00 to $100.00 an ounce this past season.

I had noticed truffle risotto paired with Maine diver scallops as an entree.  Chef Diot graciously agreed to prepare the risotto by itself as an appetizer for me.  Risotto aux Truffes Noires ($18.00).  (Black Truffle Risotto).

The rice grains had that perfect toothsome give that I look for in risotto.  It was rich, creamy, and infused with black truffle bits, as well as topped generously with truffle shavings.  The drizzle of demi glace added further complexity and depth of flavor.  This truffle season I have had the good fortune of enjoying truffle risotto at Per Se, Babbo, Spago Beverly Hills,  and Michael Mina.  Tapenade's rendition is in the same league as these heavy hitters.

Homard aux Truffes et Celery Remoulade ($24.95).  (Maine Lobster Medallions, Celeriac Remoulade, and Fresh Truffle Dressing).

Here, Chef Diot formed a disk shaped base with celeriac remoulade, placed a layer of lobster medallions on top, and finished this with a fresh truffle dressing and shaved truffles.  I love mayonnaise with lobster, so the remoulade and lobster combination worked well for me.  The celeriac provided a mild celery flavor, and the dressing added an earthy tone.  This was an excellent starter with interesting, and enjoyable flavor interaction.

Oeufs Brouilles aux Truffes Noires, Asperges Vertes ($24.00).  (Scrambled Eggs with Fresh Perigord Black Truffles, and Green Asparagus).

Scrambled eggs and truffles make a delicious pairing.  In truffle producing regions, this combination is commonly referred to as "the truffle hunter's breakfast."  These hunters are some lucky folks.  The eggs were cooked perfectly.  They were silky smooth, very moist, but not wet, and loaded with rich, earthy truffle shavings.  As an added treat, Chef Diot presented some of the eggs in a croustillant (seen at the right rear of the plate).  The chef first drains a chicken egg, then using it as a mold, packs it with butter, and freezes it.  Next, the egg shell is removed, the frozen butter is rolled in bread crumbs, and then deep fried.  To finish, the top is cut off, and the interior is packed with the truffle scrambled eggs.  This was a fun preparation, and completely delicious.  If you like scrambled eggs, you owe it to yourself to try them with truffles.

Gnocchis de Pomme de Terre et Poireaux, Truffes Noires ($24.00). (Yukon Gold Potato Gnocchis, Braised Leeks, Parmesano Reggiano, and black truffles).

At the heart of this dish are the house made Yukon Gold gnocchis.  They had a wonderful texture, light, yet with that signature creamy, Yukon Gold potato flavor.  The sauce was complex, rich, and fantastic, thanks to the cheese, demi glace, chives, and leeks.  Once again, the kitchen used a generous hand when it came to adding the black truffles.  I adore good gnocchi, and I absolutely loved Chef Diot's version.

Unfortunately, I am unable to provide you with my usual review of two entrees per meal, as I lacked the willpower to pass up the Tournedos Rossini on either visit. 

Joues de Veau Braisees au Basilic ($32.00).  (Milk Fed Veal Cheeks in Basil Sauce, with Creamer & Purple Potatoes, and a Savoy Cabbage Roll).

I am a huge fan of veal cheeks, and two big reasons why, are taste and texture.  These cheeks were like butter, and literally melted in my mouth.  The veal flavor was enhanced further by the basil sauce, which tasted like it was based off a brown veal stock reduction.

I also liked the Savoy cabbage roll.  It reminded me of an upscale Chinese egg roll.  If you are a fan of milk fed veal, I would highly recommend this entree.

Civet de Sanglier, Pates Fraiches aux Truffes et Celery ($30.00).  (Braised Wild Boar in Burgundy Red Wine Sauce, served over Fresh Papardelle Pasta with Celery Root and Black Truffles).

The braise produced boar that was tender, and full of good, gamy flavor.  The sauce had strong Burgundy and boar components that I enjoyed with the fresh, house made papardelle, and celery root puree.  While the truffles lifted this dish to a certain degree,  their contribution was less obvious than in some of the other menu offerings.   

Tournedos Rossini Sauce Aux Truffes Noires ($52.00).  (Beef Tenderloin, Perigord Black Truffle Sauce, Sauteed Duck Foie Gras, Truffle Potato "Dauphine," Sun Chokes and Turnips).

I am a big fan of just about anything Rossini.  Foie gras, truffles, demi glace, what is not to like?  The tournedos Rossini at Tapenade did not disappoint.  The USDA Prime fillet mignon was cooked rare, per my order, and had excellent texture and flavor.  The generous slab of foie gras was sauteed to perfection.  Both were raised to the next level by the Perigord truffle sauce which was bursting with deep, concentrated flavors.  The dauphine potatoes were shaped into logs, rather than the traditional balls, and studded with truffle bits.  Frying them in hot fat endowed them with a crispy crust, which gave way to a delicious, tender interior.  This entree is a real winner, and if you are a carnivore, you should think twice before passing it up.

I had one of Jerome Maure's desserts on each of my visits.

Poire Pochee, Espresso & Chocolate Custard, Caramel Sauce ($9.25).  (Poached Pear in Muscat Wine & Vanilla, Espresso Bittersweet Chocolate Custard, and Caramel Sauce).

The pear was infused with vanilla, and Muscat wine flavors. The chocolate custard was strong, rich, and tasted of espresso.  The house made caramel was thick, and tasted so good I could eat it on styrofoam.  I enjoyed this dessert a lot. 

Trilogy de Creme Brulee ($9.25).  (Creme Brulee three ways).

The three custard flavors were vanilla bean, lemon-thyme, and pistachio.  All three Brulees tasted great, and had nice, caramelized crusts, but my favorite was the pistachio.

The question remains, how is Tapenade fairing as it approaches its ninth birthday?  In a word, fabulous.  I enjoyed every menu item that I tried, (I tried quite a few), and several of them were absolutely remarkable.  Chef Jean-Michel Diot's technical skill, creativity, product selection, and attention to detail combine to create a truly exceptional culinary experience.  Chef Diot's passion and vision make Tapenade a restaurant that would not just survive, but thrive in major market cities like New York, San Francisco, Chicago, and Los Angeles. Tapenade is doing its share to place San Diego on this country's dining destination map.

Lunch M-F 11:30am-2:30pm

Dinner Daily 5:30pm-close

San Diego Restaurant Reviews

PINK'S

709 N. La Brea Blvd. Los Angeles (323) 931-4223

One morning on a recent trip to Los Angeles, I awoke in my room at the Hyatt West Hollywood with one thing on my mind, food.  As I lay in bed, I pondered the possibilities for breakfast.  There were the usual suspects, eggs, maybe pancakes with a bowl of fruit, but this was Hollywood baby, they just didn't seem to fit the bill.  Then a vision formed, and suddenly I knew what would make the perfect Tinseltown breakfast,  hot dogs at Pinks!  I checked the alarm clock, 8:30am, Pink's would open in an hour, time to get moving.  After a quick shower and shave, I grabbed a waiting cab and told the driver to head for the corner of Melrose Ave. and N. La Brea Blvd.

For those of you who are unfamiliar with Pink's, to say it is a Los Angeles institution would be an understatement.  In 1939 Paul Pink started selling his chili dogs from a large wheeled, perambulator pushcart, for 10 cents a piece.  The chili recipe was formulated by Paul's wife Betty, and is used to this day.  Now days, it is not uncommon to pull up to this family owned restaurant at one in the morning, and find fifty or more people waiting in line.  The clientele runs the gambit from Hollywood executives and celebrities, to budget conscious students, and includes everyone in between.

My cab pulled up in front of Pink's, and as I looked out the window I thought, cool, I am the first one here.  Since I had arrived early, I decided to order one item at a time, in an effort to enjoy everything as hot and fresh as possible.  This luxury is not an option once the crowds descend.  I first ordered a Chile Cheese Dog ($3.20) with a side Bowl of Coleslaw ($1.20).

After a few bites several things became clear.  The hot dog itself was fantastic.  The flavor was excellent and it also had that crisp snap I look for when biting into a dog.  Since the early push cart days, Hoffy has produced a hot dog specifically for Pink's.  They are all beef, and feature a natural casing which gives them the signature snap.  The chili is rib sticking robust, with a medium spicy bite.  If you like it spicier, there is plenty of hot sauce available.  The bun was very fresh, and extremely tender.  In my opinion, cheese is the perfect accoutrement for chili, and this certainly proved to be the case here.  Pink's chili cheese dogs are the stuff legends are made of.

Many restaurants that choose to serve coleslaw, try to gentrify this humble side dish.  I am not a fan of this.  I like my coleslaw along the lines of Kentucky Fried Chicken's offering, sweet, finely chopped, and wet with dressing.  With that said, Pink's version was my kind of slaw.  I ate some straight, but it proved even more valuable as a condiment for the chili cheese dog.

Next I stepped off the beaten path a little, and ordered a Mushroom Swiss Dog ($3.70).

This had the same hot dog and bun as the chili dog, but featured grilled mushrooms, swiss cheese, and mayonnaise.  These ingredients worked really well together, and I ate this dog just as it was prepared.  I know you probably don't think of mayonnaise and hot dogs as being a match, but paired together, the result was suprisingly enjoyable.

I had been at Pink's about 40 minutes at this point, and to place my next order I had to wait in a small line.  It is important to note that the menu posted at the restaurant does not include the "Super Specials" or as I call them, the insider dogs.  These unlisted menu items really step out of the box, and can only be found via word of mouth, or on Pink's website.  From this insiders menu I ordered the Ozzy Spicy Dog ($5.40), and from the posted menu, a side of the house cut onion rings ($2.40).  First, the rings.

As some of my loyal readers may recall from previous posts, I absolutely love onion rings.  I like them so much, I even enjoy the crap they pass off as rings at Jack in the Box.  But when a restaurant hand cuts the onions, batters them up fresh, and fries them to perfection, well, let's just say it takes me to a special place.  Pink's onion rings were all that, and should not be missed.  Now the Ozzy.

 

Just like the Black Sabbath vocalist turned reality TV star, this hot dog is over the top.  It features a spicy polish sausage, nacho cheese, grilled chopped onions, sliced fresh tomatoes, American cheese, and guacamole.  What might be the craziest thing about this dog, is how well the ingredients work together.  The spicy heat of the sausage blends well with the nacho cheese and tomatoes.  Grilled onions bring sweetness and depth, and the guacamole adds a creamy richness that I found irresistible.  If you ate four of these in one sitting, you might start biting off chicken heads too.

When I left Pink's at 11am the line was around 20 people long.  They have a loyal following, and it is easy to see why.  Pink's provides an extremely fresh, delicious, made to order product, at a very affordable price.  If you like simple, they certainly have that.  If pushing the envelope is more your style, you need look no further than the Super Specials.  Pink's has something for everyone (they even have a vegan dog).  While most folks probably don't view hot dogs as breakfast fare, a trip to Hollywood is just not complete with out a stop at Pink's.

Hours: Su-Th 9:30am-2am, F,Sa 9:30am-3am

San Diego Restaurant Reviews

FERRY PLAZA SEAFOOD

One Ferry Building #18, San Francisco (415) 274-2561

On a recent trip to San Francisco, I headed over to the Ferry Building Marketplace to do some shopping.  I arrived at lunch time, and it occured to me, this was a fine opportunity to sample some fresh seafood. I needed to make a decision however, Hog Island Oyster Co. or Ferry Plaza Seafood.  Though Hog Island is the more famous of the two, at FPS you can sit at the counter and enjoy a view of the bay.

At Hog Island, sitting at the counter puts your back to the bay.  That sealed the deal, FPS it was.

I started my meal off with a Cup of New England Clam Chowder ($4.50).

The first thing I noticed was the freshness of the clams.  No rubbery canned product here.  I was told by my server that since FPS is a Seafood market as well as a restaurant, they shuck the fresh clams daily for their chowder.  I also enjoyed the  chowder's consistency, not too thick, not too thin.  While not quite as good as Legal Seafood's version, it was a solid rendition of New England clam chowder.

The next arrival was the Crab Cocktail I had ordered ($9.00).

The presentation was attractive with the blue martini glass and matching blue ocean themed plate.  There was a generous portion of local dungeness crab.  The crab was sweet, and tasted very fresh.  The cocktail sauce was enjoyable, but unremarkable.  I ate most of the delicious crab with just the addition of some lemon juice.

I finished off my lunch with a half dozen freshly shucked Oysters ($11.00).

This was a combination of three Fanny Bay and three Marin oysters. They were served with a cocktail sauce, a red vinegar based mignonette, and a soy based sauce.  The Fanny Bays were smaller than I am used to, but they were  nice and sweet with a slight metallic finish.  The Marins were fresh, plump, and slightly briny.  I enjoyed both of the oyster varieties.

Ferry Plaza Seafood offers very fresh, high quality seafood products, either in their restaurant, or to go from their market case (which can be seen on the right).

After lunch I got the shopping started with a trip to Far West Fungi.  They specialize in wild mushrooms and truffles.  Since neither travel well I passed on the perishables, but purchased this great book on truffles ($18).

This is an excellent read for any truffle enthusiast.

Next I headed over to Cowgirl Creamery.  Since I had dinner reservations at Slanted Door for the evening, and my flight home was the next day, I suppressed my urge to buy some of their gorgeous cheeses.  I discovered, however, that they had a nice selection of June Taylor Products to choose from.  I opted for the Blood Orange, and Meyer Lemon & Rose Geranium Marmalades ($12 each).

If you have never tried anything from June Taylor, I highly urge you to order some of their products.  These marmalades were both incredible.

Saving the best for last, I headed over to Recchiuti Confections.  Assaulted by an overwhelming array of amazing products, I fell back on an old method of mine for dealing with such situations.  Buy a lot.  First I selected the Varietal Box ($10).

 

This featured four chocolates, each grown in a different region of the world, under different weather conditions.  Although I am by no means an authority on chocolate, I had fun pretending I was when I tasted each of these.  Next I picked up the Pates De Fruits ($20).

 

All of the fruit gelees had amazingly vibrant flavors, but my favorite was pear-lime.  Finally I ponied up for Michael Recchiuti's famous Infused Chocolate Boxes.  I bought a Rust ($20), a Green ($20), and a Black ($40), which is a rust and green combined, giving me two of every flavor.

 

This is the enclosed list of the infusion flavors in the black box.  Double click on it for a larger image.

 

Here is a photograph of the contents of the black box.

 

Suffice it to say, Michael Recchiuti is a gifted artist.  There was not one infusion flavor I did not love, but my favorites were the Star Anise & Pink Peppercorn, and the Bergamot Tea.  I have always professed that I do not have a great passion for sweets, but Recchiuti's confections have set a dangerous precedent where my palate is concerned.

Ferry Plaza Seafood Tu-F 10am-7pm,Sa 7am-6pm,Su 10am-5pm, M closed.

June Taylor

http://www.junetaylorjams.com

Recchiuti Confections

http://www.recchiuti.com

Far West Fungi

http://www.farwestfungi.com

San Diego Restaurant Reviews

 

STINGAREE

454 Sixth Ave. (619) 544-9500

Recently I was queried about my position on the foie gras controversy.  My position is seated.  As in seated at a table in front of several seared medallions from those fabulously bloated livers, fork in hand, ready to indulge.  Oh, and God bless the folks at Hudson Valley Farms for good measure.  It should be no surprise then, that I was thrilled when I received a tip from Gil at What We Dig about a tasting menu, being hosted by  Stingaree, that was celebrating foie gras.  The concept was to feature six local celebrity chefs, each charged with creating one of the six courses, to form a foie gras themed menu.  There was no way I was going to miss out on that.  Let the foie gras gluttony commence.

The first item to arrive was an amuse bouche by Antonio Friscia of Stingaree.  The amuse bouche consisted of a Rougie Foie Gras "Torchon", with Tangerine Brioche, Fig Marmalata, and Prosecco.

The terrine style torchon was poached to perfection, and had a lusty, rich liver flavor.  Using the French Rougie Farms product was an interesting twist, but I could not discern any quality advantage over stateside Hudson Valley's offerings.  The brioche had a nice tangerine flavor, and the fig Marmalata added a sweet component when married with the foie gras.  Chef Friscia did a great job of getting the meal started.

The First course was conceived by Chef Andrew Spurgin of Water's Fine Catering.  It consisted of Carmel Glazed Foie Gras with Peppered Brioche and Pear, a Cider Reduction Kumquat-Huckleberry Salad, and a glass of Beaumes-de-Venise wine.

The caramel glazed, seared foie gras with pear was the perfect combination of rich, tart and sweet.  The salad was enjoyable, and the Beaumes-de-Venise was an excellent pairing.  I really enjoyed this offering.

The second course was by Molly's executive chef, Brian Sinot.  He featured Pasta, in the style of Acquerello, with Madeira, Sauce Foie Gras, and Shaved Black Truffle.  Unfortunately, due to technical difficulties, there is no photograph.  I indulged in the Ridged Pasta with Foie Gras and Black Truffles at Acquerello during my December trip to San Francisco.  It is a wonderfully rich pasta dish, and I enjoyed Chef Sinot's interpretation.  I mean, what is not to like?  Truffles and foie gras, my two favorite culinary entities.

The third course was created by Christian Graves of JSIX.  It was Meyer Lemon Poached Petrole Sole with House Made Sauerkraut, Sonoma Artisan Foie Gras Sauce, and Spaetzle.

Although the portion size of the sole was not large,  it was cooked too a perfect, succulent, medium rare.  The sauce was fantastic and surprisingly light, not weighing down the delicate fish at all.  I also loved the house made sauerkraut and spaetzle.  This offering was a lot of fun.  I would love to see it on the JSIX menu.

The fourth course was the brain child of Brian Malarky from Oceanaire Seafood Room.  It was Confit of Duck Two Ways, one with Blood Orange Gastrique Reduction, the other with Broken Pomegranate Vinaigrette.

 

Chef Malarky's duck had a nice crisp skin, with very tender and moist meat.  The Orange gastrique had a good concentrated orange flavor, with a solid natural sugar component.  The tartness of the pomegranate lent itself well to the vinaigrette.  The two ways complimented each other nicely.  This was a solid duck confit I would happily order again.  Maybe Oceanaire will add it to their menu (hint, hint).

The final dessert course was by the Chef of Modus, Nathan Coulon.  It was a Foie Gras Creme Brulee, with Tarte Tatin.

The crust of the creme brulee was perfect.  The obvious intrigue here was the foie gras flavoring of the custard component.  I liked it a lot.  It will not replace the traditional creme brulee flavoring, but I believe it stands on its own unique merit.  The apples in the tarte tatin had good texture and were nicely caramelized. The crust was rich and buttery.  Chef Coulon turned in a solid performance with this dessert offering.

Stingaree provides an interesting setting for dining.  It has the feel of a chic Manhattan loft with its exposed brick, neon lights, and modern bar.  On this Thursday evening there was a live jazz band.  My table was fairly close to the bar which gave me the feeling that I was part of a happening scene.  If you are looking for quiet conversation, you should consider dining earlier, at a table further away from the bar.  I had an 8:30 pm reservation and the bar started filling up during the course of my meal, upping the noise level noticeably.  Personally I enjoyed the hip, bustling vibe, but that is just me.

What do you get when you combine a sleek new restaurant, six talented chefs, and luxurious foie gras?  One hell of a good time, that's what.  If this event was held once a month, I would be there every time, with bells on.  Having events like this show up on our sleepy berg's calendar, bodes well for San Diego's culinary future.  2006 saw San Diego grow substantially as a fine dining destination.  The Foie Gras Dinner hosted by Stingaree was a great way to kick off 2007.

$80 per person

$30 wine pairing

San Diego Restaurant Reviews