OLDE CITY GRILL

967 Garnet Ave. San Diego (858) 483-4624

I am big fan of Philadelphia cheesesteak sandwiches, so when I discovered that a new purveyor, Olde City Grill, had opened on Garnet Avenue in Pacific Beach, no arm twisting or cajoling was required to ensure my prompt visitation.  The restaurant is co-owned by three enterprising east coast transplants, Kenny Casciato, Zach Cotler, and Chris Kelly.  This group has assembled a menu that offers a variety of items, including specialty cheesesteaks, hot and cold sandwiches, New York style pizzas, giant wings, meal size salads, and platters of french fries covered with all manner of ingredients, referred to as "dumpster plates."  I had high hopes for the cheesesteaks and pizzas, due in part to the owners combined east coast acumen, two hailing from Philly, and one from Brooklyn.    

Olde City Grill is located on the southern side of the busy block, between Bayard and Cass streets.  There is plenty of indoor seating,

and the restaurant's spacious outdoor patio provides the perfect spot to enjoy Pacific Beach's ever entertaining brand of people watching.

Eager to try Olde City's cheesesteaks and pizzas, I made time for two evening visits this past week.  First, we will turn our attention to the cheesesteaks. The menu contains a handy flow chart to help guide patrons through the quirky etiquette of the cheesesteak ordering process.

 

The American (Wagyu) top round Kobe beef, of course, immediately caught my attention.  I had not seen this type of beef used in Philly cheesesteaks before, so I ordered it, using the chart: 1. American Kobe beef, 2. 12 inch, 3. American cheese, 4. "Wit" grilled onions, 5. None ($8.75).

The first thing I notice in a sandwich is the bread, as anything short of great, fresh baked, goods is a deal-breaker for me.  At Olde City Grill, the owners' decision to fly in Amoroso rolls from Philadelphia has paid off, due to their signature moist, soft, springy, texture.  When it comes to these iconic sandwiches, there is some debate over whether they should be "wet" or "dry."  Most hard core Philly steak aficionados opine that a cheesesteak should leave your forearms drenched in juices and grease down to the elbows (obviously "wet"). They have even coined the term, "the Philly lean," referring to a technique wherein one leans towards the sandwich, to avoid ruining a long sleeve shirt.  I have always subscribed to this ideology.  When I hefted Olde City's version with two hands, I was immediately concerned, since it failed to emit any juices or grease. I worried that this cheesesteak would prove to be dry and unpleasant, as is often the case under these circumstances.  Surprisingly, my trepidation proved unfounded.  The Kobe beef was moist and juicy, not greasy or wet.  Flavor-wise, the Kobe was robustly beefy, luxuriously rich, and addictive.  Generally, the beef for cheesesteaks is prepped by slicing the meat very thin before grilling.  This Kobe Beef is so tender that they just throw a slab on the griddle, and cut it up into a fine grain as it is being cooked with nothing more than a spatula.  The American cheese had been melted into the meat on the griddle, binding it together with the sweet, grilled onions.  I must say, if you had told me I would really like a Philly cheesesteak that was not wet, I would have laughed.  My opinion has been changed.  The Kobe beef really makes a difference.  Old City Grill makes a great cheesesteak, albeit not wet, but excellent none the less. 

For my other sandwich, from the specialty steaks section of the menu, I ordered a 12 inch Cowboy Cheesesteak with American Kobe Beef, American Cheese, RedStar Barbecue Sauce, and Grilled Onions ($9.25).

 

Below is the cross section for your viewing pleasure.

 

The unique aspect of this sandwich is the addition of barbecue sauce.  Olde City uses RedStar BBQ sauce made right here in San Diego.  The Menu reads "local guys making great sauce," and the restaurant even sells bottles to go ($4.99).

The sauce's sweet, yet noticeably spicy profile enhanced the Kobe beef's flavor without overpowering it.  Grilled onions and cheese, as before, added good dimension, making for another delicious cheesesteak.

Sometimes there are menu items that you just have to order, even though you know you shouldn't.  This was the case with the 12 inch Triple Bypass with American Kobe Beef, Pepperoni, Italian Sausage, Meatballs, American Cheese, Cheese Wiz, and Grilled Onions ($12.00).

 

Another cross section.

 

The menu proudly boasts "Go ahead, call your doctor.  You can use our phone."  As amusing as I found all this, I was not sure how these ingredients would interact together, especially since I am not particularly fond of pepperoni (I know, sacrilege).  I was pleasantly surprised.  I won't sugar coat anything here, seriously rich doesn't begin to cover this offering.  That being said, the Triple Bypass tasted really good.  The preparation begins with the griddle master breaking up the meats and onions while grilling, after which he melts in the cheeses, and mixes everything together.

The result is a unique blend of flavors, enhanced further by the pepperoni, an ingredient I rarely enjoy.  I usually eat two 12 inch sandwiches for dinner, but thoughts of that flew out the window about halfway through the Bypass.  I finished it, but that bad boy was filling.

Olde City offers east coast style thin crust pizza as whole pies, or by the slice.

Intent on sampling several of the specialty slices, I started with the Aloha PB with Ham, Bacon, and Pineapple ($2.75).

New York style pizza is all about the crust.  Olde City's has a nice chew, good flavor, and does not exhibit soggy tendencies towards the center of the pie.  The Aloha had a generous amount of mozzarella, and the pineapple, ham, bacon combination made for an enjoyable, sweet and savory experience.

Next I opted for a slice of Barbecue Chicken with Red Onions, and RedStar BBQ Sauce ($2.75).

RedStar BBQ sauce is the real star here.  Olde City applies its sauces in a circular pattern on their pies, giving the slices their signature "tiger stripe" appearance.

I then selected the Buffalo Chicken with Blue Cheese Crumbles, and Buffalo Sauce ($2.75).

This pizza reminded me of eating Buffalo wings dipped in Blue cheese dressing.  If you like Buffalo wings you will like this pie's unique flavor.

Finally, I chose a slice of Pesto's Revenge with Artichoke Hearts, Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Garlic, and topped with Pesto ($2.75).

Full flavor is the calling card for this pizza.  There is a pervasive tangy component derived from the sun-dried tomatoes and artichoke hearts.  The pesto stripes add a fresh, herbal note.  This interesting pie is loaded with bright flavors that truly pop on the palate.

The owners also operate Sunset Italian Ice across from the roller coaster in Mission Beach.  They offer their homemade ices at Olde City as well.

My choice for dessert was a Large Watermelon Italian Ice ($4.00).

 

This ice was infused with an intense watermelon essence, tempered by an equally intense sweetness, which I liked.  One quart of watermelon puree is used to make one gallon of ice, resulting in a strong ice.  Be forewarned, the empty cup may not look that big, but after my server was done over-stuffing mine, it made for a sizable serving.

The Question remains, how did these transplanted entrepreneurs fair, producing two of my favorite east coast staples.  Their pizza has a quality crust, fresh toppings and cheeses, and a good selection of sauces, all offered in unique combinations with artistic presentations.  I still prefer pizza cooked in a wood fired oven, but that being said, Olde City creates a solid, thoroughly enjoyable product.  As far as their Philly cheesesteaks are concerned, it all comes down to the basic ingredients.  The American Kobe beef is cut fresh daily, and cooked to order in individual portions on the griddle.  This second point is important because it allows the meat to caramelize.  When high volume operations cook giant piles at once, the meat steams instead of being grilled, causing the outcome to be dubious at best (two famous Philadelphia institutions come to mind, but I won't name names).  When describing their preparation of the top round Kobe beef, Kenny stated that they don't even need to season it.  That is a testament to how much flavor is inherent in this meat.  When you take fresh Amoroso bread, tender, flavorful beef grilled to order, and a good selection of cheeses and toppings, you clearly have the formula for a great cheesesteak.  If you are passionate about Philadelphia cheesesteaks, like me, do yourself a favor and give Olde City Grill a try.

Hours:

Monday-Wednesday 11am-Midnight

Thursday-Saturday 11am-3am

Sunday 11am-Midnight

San Diego Restaurant Reviews

Comments

[dave]

whoah. amoroso rolls flown in? i am so there. the pics look great.

[Michael]

I had the phone in my hand and dialed 91 and waited to see if I had to press the other 1, cuz I thought I wuz gonna have a coronary reading your review. Excellent!...I have to go to this place. Love a good cheesesteak!

[Captain Jack]

Hi Dave,
Thank You. I have to admit, there is something about those rolls.

Hey Michael,
Too funny, glad you made it through.

[koko]

I'm going there tomorrow.
Hope I survive. I'm anxious to try the Kobe beef and to see why the rolls are so highly regarded.
I can't wait.

[Captain Jack]

Hi koko,
Thanks for the love on Chowhound and in kokoscorner. I am glad you had a good time down in my neck of the woods.

[matt feeney]

Alex's brown bag still has the best philly in san diego!

[Scott J.]

Yum - my mouth is watering.

[Captain Jack]

Hey Scott, I know what you mean. Just looking at a good cheesesteak can make me salivate like Pavlov's dogs.

[bob]

i went to the old city grill the other night and the cheese steak's and service was the best...keep up the good work...also a good spot for first dates!

[Captain Jack]

Hey Matt,
I love Alex's Brown Bag as well. ABB and OCG offer two very different styles of cheesesteak, and trying both provides for a good opportunity to compare and contrast.

[Captain Jack]

Thanks Bob,
I am glad you enjoyed Olde City Grill.

[jerome astolfi]

I stopped by today for a cheesesteal sandwich. I had the classic with onions, sweet peppers and mushrooms. It was delicious ! It is now on my list of places to go in PB...

[Captain Jack]

Hey Jerome,
mmm, sounds like a great combination. I am glad you found a new place in PB to add to your rotation.
Cheers

[M]

Just turned on to your site, by someone letting me know there was a new cheesesteak in town. And REAL Italian ice? Be still my heart.
Looks and sounds De-Lish!
Count me in on both that beast of a hoagie and your site. I'll certainly be back to see what else you're chowing down. I envy you Captain!

[jturtle]

Thanks for the info on this. Went last night and was blown away. I could eat here 3 times a week. Ordered the buffalo chicken sandwich and the chicken was perfectly cooked I was amazed!

[Big Jim]

Olde City is bomb, love thier pizza, and how about that Red Star sauce?!?! stuff is unbelievable, i bought a bottle and use it on everything!!

[Captain Jack]

Hey jturtle,
You are very welcome, I am glad you enjoyed the buffalo chicken sandwich. I will have to give it a try.

Hi Big Jim,
I had the BBQ chicken wings with the Red Star there 2 nights ago and they were fabulous. Thanks for stopping by the site.

[Lanilan]

I LOVE LOVE LOVE this place! The BBQ sauce is the best on everything, the wings, pizza, philly steaks... cant lose! The service is top notch and Jack the Manager is the best!!!

[Felicia Andreotta]

Kenny Casciato, so this is where you ended up. I was just in San Diego in July. What I would have given for a REAL Cheesesteak!!

[philcarpenter-cheesesteakextraordinaire]

Fellas - good and tasty, but not sure about great. Lets ease on the hefty use of superlatives amid reviews - its challenges your basis of a local philly cat. Perhaps you are alway rooting for the Lakers and cheers for the Cowboys on sunday. Any purist would not be too fond of the kobe beef style + the ridculous price premium ($8.75!!). Is this the Philly Ritz-Carleton?

Please price it more appropriately at $6.95, but from a religious perspective i have an issue with cheesesteaks priced north of $6.

Kudos on shipping in the amorosa bread, but that is a prerequsite in my mind and par for the course for any external cheesesteak shop.

[Greg]

Great review.

Olde City Grill is right around the corner from my work. There are tons of places to eat in PB, but yet I still find myself eating at Olde City Grill about every other day.

[Captain Jack]

pc-ce,
Thanks for stopping by the site and contributing.

Greg,
I am glad you are enjoying OCG, thanks for stopping by.

[Marion]

We are from Philly and we can vouch that these are some of the best sandwiches that we have had. A great cheesesteak is an art and Old City Grille have mastered it. Can't wait to try a hoagie.

Bravo, we will be back.