BAR WEST
959 Hornblend St. San Diego (858) 273-4800
I have written in the past about the ongoing gentrification of Pacific Beach. The last two years have witnessed the opening of Tower 23 and Johnny V, two decidedly upscale establishments in our ordinarily dressed down community. The owners of downtown's Stingaree and Sidebar apparently noticed the trend, and decided to get in on the action. They have recently debuted Bar West, a refined new restaurant and nightclub, at the location that Margarita Rocks, and further back, Billy Bones once called home.
Saying that the the old building was renovated would be a gross understatement. The project was a frame up remodel. The strikingly modern interior features a sleek main bar,
a swanky dining room,
and for nightclub patrons, VIP seating areas complete with bottle service.
For culinary talent, Executive Chef and Manager Larry Abrams was lured away from the Cohn Group, where he had previously headed up Thee Bungalow. His new menu is billed as "comfort food re-imagined," but also reflects his early professional days spent in New Orleans.
My first visit to Bar West was for a spontaneous, casual dinner while seated at the bar. For my appetizer, I chose the Ceviche ($11).
While ceviche is commonly prepared with white fish, this version features lobster and shrimp. The mixture is split into three dishes, and served with taro root chips. The citrus marinade gave the ceviche a pop that really brightened the shrimp and lobster flavors. The taro root chips added nicely to this dish as well. If you are a ceviche fan, I think you will enjoy Bar West's ramped up rendition.
From the sandwiches and wraps section of the menu, I selected the West Coast Lobster Roll ($14).
Praise The Lord and alert the media. A San Diego restaurant has decided to offer this elusive east coast favorite. This lobster roll includes Tahitian vanilla aioli, crispy pancetta, and lobster salad, all served on a fresh artisan baguette. The lobster was full-flavored, and the aioli was delicious. Despite not being an aficionado of this Maine specialty, I really enjoyed Bar West's version, and will order it again.
That night, I also ordered the Shrimp and Oyster Po' Boy with Southern Remoulade, House Pickles, and a side of Truffle Pomme Frites ($10).
The fresh baguette is stuffed with fried oysters and shrimp, then covered with their excellent remoulade, which possessed a solid paprika component. The house-made pickles helped cut the richness of this sandwich. The pommes frites were flavored with garlic and truffle oil, and made for a delicious side. I am a big fan of southern style po' boys, and Bar West turns out a solid example of this Louisiana icon.
Having found my impromptu dinner quite pleasurable, I decided to return for a more formal visit the following week.
When I returned for my follow up visit, I was quickly seated at a comfortable booth. My server, Kristine, arrived promptly to take my drink order. Bar West has a good selection of specialty drinks. I chose the Pears Hilton ($10).
This drink contains Absolut Pears, Dekuyper's Sour Apple Pucker, a splash of white cranberry juice, and is garnished with a pear slice. I liked the pear-like flavor, and the garnish was a nice touch. Just remember folks, the Pears Hilton is an alcoholic beverage, and after a few of these, you may want to put yourself under house arrest (ankle bracelet optional).
Kristine recommended the Ahi Tuna Threeways (Market) for an appetizer.
The three ways of preparation are: (left) sashimi with wasabi emulsion, (center) seared with sesame seeds, served over soba noodles, with watercress, edible flowers and dressing, (right) inside a wonton with spicy sauce. The sashimi was fresh and had good texture. The wonton was fun, and the ahi inside had an interesting, almost ground consistency. The winner of the trio, though, was the seared ahi with noodle salad. The thick triangles of ahi were seared perfectly, and the slightly sweet dressing enhanced their flavor well.
From the tapas portion of the menu I ordered the Soup Sampler of the Day ($10).
From left to right, the soups this evening were: caramelized french onion with a balsamic reduction, potato-leek, and tomato basil. The tomato basil is a paradigm of the classic Italian pairing. Texture was the real surprise with the potato-leek, which had both an enjoyable flavor, and a consistency that was more like foam, than traditional soup. Intense would be the best word to describe the taste of the french onion. This excellent soup benefits from the balsamic reduction, as well as the caramelized onions.
Also from the tapas menu, I selected the Artichoke and Goat Cheese Beignets, with Red Pepper Coulis and Aged Balsamic ($8).
I expected to like this offering, after all, what's not to like about deep fried dough? I did not expect to acquire a new addiction. The beignets were outrageous. When I bit into one of these balls of joy, the crispy dough exterior gave way to a creamy-dreamy explosion of cheese and artichoke flavors.
Chef Abrams spent the early part of his career in New Orleans, and if that had anything to do with the inception of these beignets, I am sure glad he did.
My Hilton had done its time, so I ordered a second specialty drink, the Pacific Beach Tea ($10).
This drink is made up of Effen raspberry vodka, Dekuyper triple sec, lemonade, sweet and sour, and a splash of Coke. It is garnished with a mint sprig and a lemon wedge. This concoction packed more of a punch than the Hilton, and was not as sweet.
Being the fan of French cuisine that I am, I could not resist ordering the Duck Confit with Braised Leeks and White Bean Cassoulet ($27).
The duck leg and thigh had most of the subcutaneous fat rendered out, leaving behind moist flesh and tasty skin. The cassoulet had a meaty richness that I found enticing. The large white beans were cooked al dente, which gave them a firm texture. This is a classic preparation of two French culinary legends.
For my second entree, I chose the Spinach and Salsify Tagliatelle with Lobster Bolognese ($25).
I decided on this offering when I learned that this unusual spinach and salsify tagliatelle is house-made. The noodles themselves were cooked to a perfect al dente, and had a refined and interesting flavor when tasted alone. The lobster bolognese ragu added intrigue to the equation. On one hand, I could tell it was based off of a typical bolognese meat sauce, with the usual onions, garlic, carrots, and a little tomato product. It was meaty and rich, as one would expect, yet the essence of the lobster subtly permeated the sauce, which made for a very unique flavor profile. This is a delicious and inspired pasta dish. Chef Abrams hit it out of the park with this offering, and I want the recipe.
Two items stood out for me on the dessert menu. The Cinnamon French Toast with Caramelized Plums and Cinnamon Caramel A La Mode ($8), and the Southern Bread Pudding with Whiskey Caramel and Pecan Praline Gelato ($8). My server, Kristine, generously offered to have the kitchen downsize both desserts, and serve them on one plate.
The French toast (left) was a sweetened version of the breakfast staple. The bread pudding had good texture and flavor. I loved the whiskey caramel sauce with both desserts, and the praline gelato was excellent.
Having visited Bar West twice, I can definitely say Pacific Beach is fortunate to have this new upscale restaurant/nightclub to call her own. The club is filled with plasma screens, state of the art sound, and high tech lighting effects that set the stage for the late night party scene. In the restaurant, Chef Abrams has created an exciting menu, with several dishes you will not find elsewhere in town. The menu items I ordered were executed flawlessly on both of my visits. Service was prompt and friendly, yet not cloying. My server, Kristine, has excellent command of the menu offerings, and provided knowledgeable advice when queried. Bar West also offers several unique services, such as on-sand food delivery for weekend beachgoers, home delivery via scooter, and valet beach cruiser parking. Owner James Brennan and his partner have successfully merged a seaside location with downtown-chic at Bar West. The gentrification of Pacific Beach just took a giant leap forward.
Hours:
Restaurant: Mon-Sun 5pm-10pm
Nightclub: Thu, Fri, Sat 9pm-2am
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