HAWTHORN'S

2895 University Avenue (619) 544-0940

The neighborhood of North Park is experiencing a renaissance of sorts, and in no place  is this more evident than at the Steven and Mary Birch North Park Theater on University avenue.  This attractively restored 1920's structure is home to Hawthorn's, the new incarnation of  the venerable San Diego dining establishment, Fifth and Hawthorn, which closed in spring of this year.  Hawthorn's is composed of two sleek dining rooms,

a hip bar area that opens into the theater lobby,

and an exhibition style kitchen where you can watch as co-chefs Alberto Montero (pictured), and Andres Banuelos ply their craft.

I recently visited Hawthorn's on two separate evenings to sample several offerings from their intriguing, and ever evolving menu.

On the first visit I got things rolling with two selections from the appetizer menu, the Blue Lump Crab and Salmon Cakes, and the Calamari Fritti.

The cakes are served with a daikon, cucumber, and sweet pea tendril salad, and a wasabe-cilantro remoulade.  I enjoyed the combined flavors of crab and salmon, and found the crispy crust, and tender interior provided a nice texture balance.  Flavor was enhanced further with the addition of the tasty remoulade.  This was an interesting interpretation of traditional crab cakes.

The calamari fritti features a semolina crust, and is served atop a spicy tomato-basil marinara sauce, with garlic aioli on the side.  What first hit me about this dish was the unique texture the semolina brought to the crust, light, yet very crispy.  Amazingly, the crust remained crispy even on the bottom portion that was in direct contact with the marinara.  The fresh squid flavor combined with the wonderful crust, and the bright marinara, to make this fried calamari a winner in my book.

For my entree, I selected the Chipotle Barbecued Pork Chop, and Hibachi Salmon Combination.

The bone in chop was served with mashed potatoes,spinach, and a natural au jus.  My pork was moist and flavorful, being enhanced even further by the delicious au jus.

The salmon, (more visible in this picture on the right)

is served on a bed of jasmine rice, then topped with Mandarin orange butter, and an enoki mushroom-daikon salad.  The salmon was tender and the orange butter added a nice flavor component.  The enoki-daikon salad gave this dish good textural complexity as well.

On my next visit to Hawthorn's I chatted with owner Rose Witt about the night's offerings.  She recomended the evening's special of Old Chicken.

Rose  saw the look of alarm I exhibited upon hearing the words old and chicken linked together.  I had begun to associate these words with other linked pairs such as rotten tomatoes, and rancid milk.  Mrs. Witt was quick to belay my fears, explaining that the name "old chicken" had nothing to do with the freshness of the fowl.  It turns out the menu formulated for Hawthorn's opening contained a new chicken preparation that was never offered at Fifth and Hawthorn.  Many long time patrons, and staff members alike, began to crave the "old chicken recipe" offered at the previous location, thus creating the amusing name.  Rose assured me the "new chicken" is good too.

Old Chicken is stuffed with mozzerella, feta, and parmesan cheeses, as well as tomatoes, and spinach.  After one bite I understood why there was a call for this dish's return.  The pan roasted breast had a beautiful caramelized crust, and was tender and juicy inside. All that wonderful melted cheese combined with the tangy tomatoes, spinich and flavorful chicken, to provide an excellent taste sensation.  I rarely order chicken at restaurants, but I would order Old Chicken again in a New York minute.  I highly recommend this dish.

My next entree was the Fried Catfish with Mashed Potatoes.

When the dish arrived I was impressed by the innovative plating.  Alberto had created a cylinder of mashed potatoes, and then formed the catfish filet into a semi circle around it.  The catfish had been dredged in a Louisiana style coating before being fried.  This brought a little heat to the fish.  The filet was fried to perfection, crispy and tender at the same time.  I was suprised by how well the fried catfish flavor went with the creamy mashed potatoes.  I finished this dish combining the fish and potatoes in each bite.

My next entree was the Seafood Fettuccini.

I was told Hawthorn's buys their fresh pasta from the Assenti brothers in little Italy, so things were off to a good start.  At first I could not even see the fettucccini because it was hidden by all the seafood.  Fish, clams, mussels, and shrimp blanketed the pasta.  All the seafood was fresh tasting and delicious.  The Assenti's pasta was cooked just right, and the sauce it came with was fantastic.  I love seafood pasta, and if you do too, I would urge you to give Hawthorn's rendition a try.

As I was getting ready to call it quits, a friend of mine who knew I was reviewing Hawthorn's that evening, stopped by to say hello.  This prompted me to order the Fuisilli Pasta for us to share.

The pasta is tossed with olives, tomatoes, mushrooms, capers, and onions, in a white wine garlic butter, and then topped with shaved parmesan cheese.  The pasta was perfect al dente, and the flavors of the ingredients worked together nicely.  I particularly enjoyed the capers and the olives.

At this point I figured what the hell, let's order dessert.  I had read about David Witt's secret creme brulee recipe, and decided to give it a try.

I can reveal one of the secrets right away, this is a big creme brulee that most couples could happily split.  The custard was rich, creamy and mildly sweet, contrasting nicely with the caramelized, and slightly charred sugar on top.

If the city of North Park's goal is to revitalize its main street area, this new theater and dining complex is a huge step in the right direction.  Hawthorn's owners had the vision to keep the best of the old, and combine it with the best of the new.  Their restaurant has emerged at a higher level because of this.  I can safely say that I enjoyed every item that came out of the kitchen.  The dining space is sleek and attractive, and owner Rose Witt is the consummate hostess, making everyone feel at home.  Hawthorn's is an excellent addition to the North Park dining scene.

Hours:

Happy Hour 5-6:30pm

Dinner Su-W 5-9pm, Th-Sa 5-10pm

Sunday Brunch 10-2pm

Notes of interest:

Hawthorn's offers a special couples prix fix menu M-W.

Dec. 6th Hawthorn's will have live jazz & Vocals 7-9pm.

Hawthorn's will soon offer theatre/dining packages, call for details.

Comments

[Chubbypanda]

That's my kind of dining. The "Old Chicken" looks particularly appealing. Great review. You really ate your homework.

- Chubbypanda

[Captain Jack]

Thanks CP,
I wish my homework at UCSD had been this much fun. The "Old Chicken" was very good.