San Diego Restaurant Reviews

CAVAILLON

14701 Via Bettona, San Diego (858) 433-0483

Amidst the burgeoning and prestigious community of Santa Luz sits Cavaillon, a decidedly upscale restaurant featuring regional gourmet cuisine from the South of France.  I had learned in early April that Chef & Owner Philippe Verpiand would be offering a special foie gras menu for the month of May.  Due to my insatiable penchant for these delectable bloated livers, no coercion was necessary to insure my presence on opening day.

My first appetizer was Foie Gras "Au Torchon" ($22, foie gras menu).

Chef Verpiand got the festivities started off on the right track, molding a whole lobe of foie gras in a towel, and subsequently poaching it in a house-made duck and pork stock mixture.  A medallion is then sliced and paired with a mousseline of sweet dried apricot puree and whipping cream.  Having spread some foie and mousseline on toasted brioche, I found myself transported to foodie Valhalla.  My only problem with this heavenly starter was that I could have happily eaten three more.

For an appetizer/salad, I selected the Purple Artichoke and Foie Gras Terrine ($19, foie gras menu).

The torchon reappeared in this next offering shaved over tender purple artichokes hearts and an organic baby spring mix, topped with Serrano ham chips, and all finished with an aged balsamic vinaigrette.  This creatively conceived study in exquisite tastes and textures played a perfect symphony on my palate.

Soup fan that I am, I could not pass up the Red Beet Soup ($9, regular menu).

 

The beet soup includes julienne of green apple, goat cheese, and a drizzle of olive oil.  This smooth, thick soup, full of concentrated flavor, struck me as the ultimate essence of beets.  I can say without reservation that Chef Verpiand's rendition of this delicacy is the best that I have ever had.

Another menu item I just had to try was Pot-Au-Feu ($21, foie gras menu).

This course arrives at your table in a petite, cast iron, covered pot.  When your server removes the lid, your olfactory senses are treated to a spellbinding aroma.  The pot au feu consists of slow cooked duck stock combined with spring vegetables and diced seared foie gras, topped with black truffle oil.  I loved the seared foie and fresh peas, but surprisingly, my favorite element was the rich and complex duck stock.  I could fill a thermos with that stock, and nip away at it for hours.  The high quality ingredients of this interactive presentation make for an excellent menu choice.

As a preface to exploring my entree selections for the evening, I should explain that these dishes might have never been created, had it not been for famed nineteenth century operatic composer Gioachino Antonio Rossini.  Following his great successes with The Barber of Seville and William Tell, Rossini retired at the age of thirty-seven, allowing him to travel the world in search of the finest, most decadent cuisines.  Becoming an influential fixture on Europe's fine dining scene,  the eponymous preparation of "a la Rossini" was created in his honor, featuring one of his favorite ingredients, foie gras.  This guy was a man after my own heart, and a true foodie pioneer.

While selecting my entree, I had an epiphany of sorts.  Since I embrace all preparations Rossini, I thought why not order dueling Rossinis: one traditional, one a creative interpretation.

The duel began with a traditional Beef Tenderloin a la Rossini ($38, regular menu).

My first Rossini consisted of seared foie gras perched atop a USDA Prime beef tenderloin, drizzled with demi glace, and accompanied by porcini-grey shallot mashed potatoes and asparagus.  As per my request, my steak was cooked to a perfect rare, and was complemented by a nice caramelized crust.  The same held true for the generous slab of seared foie gras.  What hit this dish out of the park however, was Chef Verpiand's flawless execution of his scratch-made demi glace.  The complex, concentrated flavors of this classic french glace, which can literally take days to create, made for the perfect finish for this outstanding Rossini.

The Duel continued with Chef Verpiand's creative interpretation, Maple Leaf Farms Duck Breast a la Rossini ($36, foie gras menu).

This entree starts with a base of creamy bacon and leek potatoes, around which thick slices of roasted duck breast are arranged.  Next, a slice of seared foie gras is placed on top of the assembled ingredients, all of which are finished with a port wine duck stock reduction.  The duck breast was juicy and flavorful, and the foie gras was once again seared to perfection.  Potatoes rife with sauteed leeks made for a tasty side dish.  The wine fortified stock reduction played well as an interesting contrast to the previous dish's demi.  While not as complex, it possessed a sweet component built up from the reduced port, which I found alluring.  Rich and delicious, its flavors melded well with the duck breast.  This is yet another excellent entree that should not be missed.

Cavaillon strikes a lyrical chord on several fronts.  The tastefully appointed dining room provides a pleasant environment in which to enjoy a fine meal without being overly pretentious.  New Maitre d' Rick Rushing is a gracious and capable host, and manages the front of the restaurant with aplomb.  Key modifications to the serving staff have pruned a controversial waiter, and on my visit the service was spot on.  In the end, what impressed me the most was the fabulous food.  Chef Philippe Verpiand orchestrates a kitchen operation that is hitting on all cylinders.  No short cuts were taken, and every menu item that I ordered was flawlessly conceived and executed, using the freshest top shelf ingredients.  Cavaillon has immediately vaulted into my top tier rotation of San Diego fine dining destinations.  Foie gras aficionados far and wide can rejoice, our beloved livers are given the royal treatment in Cavaillon's May celebration of gastronomical indulgence.

Hours: 

Dinner Daily 5pm-9:30pm.

Brunch/Lunch Sunday 9am-2pm.

STUDIO DINER

4701 Ruffin Rd. San Diego (858) 715-6400

In the corner of Stu Segall's working movie lot (think Silk Stalkings and Veronica Mars), sits this gleaming chrome and neon railcar-style diner that could have starred in one of Hollywood's 1940's period pieces.  In keeping with that theme, Studio Diner's menu rounds up most of "the usual suspects" comprising typical diner fare.  What caught my attention, however, were several East Coast specialties that had been noticeably absent on the San Diego dining scene.  That, combined with the fact that SD is open 24 hours, something all too rare in our city,  prompted me to visit on a recent Saturday night.

I ordered Stone Brewing Co's Pale Ale ($3.75) to keep me company as I perused the menu.

I found Stone's flagship pale ale to have a deep amber color, a mild hop aroma, and a firm malt flavor.  While I prefer their IPA, being able to order a Stone product at all, in a diner setting, was a pleasure indeed.

As a starter I chose a Cup of New England Clam Chowder ($3.75).

 

New England chowder comes in varying viscosities, ranging from thick to thin.  Studio's version is towards the thick end of the spectrum.  The flavor had a solid "from the sea" quality, and was not overly salty.  There was an abundance of fresh tasting clams, with just the right amount of potatoes.  Though the consistency was a bit thicker than I prefer, all in all, this was a good chowder which I would not hesitate to order again.

As I was here for the East Coast specialties, the Lobster Roll ($18.95) was a must.

This roll excelled through its simplicity.  Celery, mayonnaise, and six ounces of fresh, tender lobster meat is combined and piled high on a lightly toasted, soft, white roll.  Although the lobster roll does not boast many ingredients, the result is truly greater than the sum of the parts.

I knew a trip to Studio Diner would be incomplete without sampling the Fried Clams (Market Price ($16.95 on my visit)).

The stars of the show on this plate are the whole belly Ipswich clams that SD flies in, fresh from Cape Ann, Massachusetts.  Mine were fried to perfection, and possessed good flavor, with a texture that was not too chewy.  The house-made tarter sauce and lemon wedges made for the perfect accoutrement.  This offering was a solid rendition of an east coast favorite.

Sitting at the counter, I was witness to all the food-service action.

As you can see, the diner was bustling at 9pm on a Saturday night.

Watching the waitresses manning the shake machine throughout my meal, I was compelled to order a Chocolate Malt ($5.50) for dessert.

The malt was rich and creamy, and made me feel like I was sitting at a soda jerk counter back in the forties.  It had just the right amount of malt flavoring, and I would be hard pressed to pass up this frozen concoction on subsequent visits.

Due to the demise of Bar West's upscale menu, I am pleased that another San Diego restaurant has stepped in to offer a quality version of Maine's staple, the lobster roll.  This offering, combined with the superb fried clams, is enough to make Studio Diner a worthwhile dining destination.  While my meal focused on their East Coast specialties, it is important to note that the extensive menu has something for just about everyone.  Studio Diner features high quality food, with some unique-to-San Diego items, fast and friendly service, along with a fun and nostalgic dining environment.  Add to that, true 24 hour service, and I say, "this is the begining of a beautiful friendship."

RITUAL TAVERN

3095 30th St. North Park, San Diego (619) 283-1618

When it comes to dining out, nothing turns me off faster than discovering that a restaurant's kitchen relies heavily on frozen or prepared foodservice supply products.  I just do not understand the appeal of ordering something that I can buy at Costco, Sam's Club, or Smart & Final.  My bottom line principle is this: re-heating some SYSCO product is not cooking, and if I am going to eat something of that nature, it will be in the convenience of my own home, not in some hack "restaurant."  It is because of this maxim that I took particular interest in Ritual Tavern, a relatively new restaurant and bar in North Park.  The word was that their kitchen prepared the menu items from scratch, using high quality ingredients, and that they had an esoteric beer selection to boot.  This sounded like my kind of place, so I recently visited for dinner in order to see if the rumors were true.

After perusing the beer list I settled on the Bear Republic Racer 5 ($4.50).

Let me start by saying that the beer list is fairly extensive, with eight local micro-brews on tap, and over 40 well-chosen bottled beers as well.  Even the most knowledgeable hopheads should be able to find something that they will enjoy.  Being an IPA fan, I found the Racer 5 suited my tastes, and the 7% alcohol content was respectable as well. 

Since I am an enthusiast of ALL onion rings, great and small, I had to order the House Onion Rings with home-made remoulade ($5).

The rings featured a Kolsch ale batter, and were deep fried to a perfect golden brown.  The hand cut onions were sweet, and retained the right amount of crispness, providing a pleasing mouth feel.  These rings were outrageous, and the only problem was that I did not order enough.

Notice anything unusual in the photograph of the Ketchup bottle?

That's right, no label.  Ritual Tavern takes the house-made concept so seriously that they even make their condiments from scratch, including the ketchup, Dijon mustard, pickle chips, hot sauce, tarter sauce, and remoulade.  Besides the ketchup, I also sampled the remoulade, the hot sauce, and the tarter sauce, all of which proved to be excellent.

I am always game for some British pub fare, so for my first entree I selected the Shepard's Pie ($12.00)

 

The pie features Niman Ranch lamb and beef, which was fresh and flavorful, demonstrating RT's commitment to quality.  Other ingredients include parsnips, carrots, and green beans, all topped with fluffy toasted mashed potatoes.  I found this to be a top notch rendition of Shepard's pie.

For my next entree, I switched gears to southern comfort food, and ordered the Saddlebrush Gumbo ($14.00).

Chef Glenn Farrington's version of this bayou classic boasted Jidori chicken, Mexican shrimp, and Niman andouille sausage.  As you might have guessed, with an ingredient list such as that, the final product was delicious.  This gumbo had a thicker, etouffee-like consistency that I really enjoyed, and finished with a noticeable amount of spicy heat.  Though this was not a hard-line Louisiana style preparation, I highly recommend it nonetheless.   

I wound up my evening of gluttony with an order of Fish And Chips ($13.00).

The intriguing twist here was the use of domestic farm raised catfish rather than the more traditional cod.  The impact was that  after biting through the nicely crisped and flavorful batter coating,  I was treated to catfish fillets that melted in my mouth like butter.  While different from the flaky texture of cod, the catfish made for an interesting and tasty variation on this British standard.  Also worthy of note in this dish was the house-made tartar sauce that I would, and did, happily eat by itself with a spoon.

There is much to like about Ritual Tavern: hands on owners Mike Flores and Staci Wilkins, a cozy and welcoming atmosphere, efficient and friendly service, reasonable prices, and an outstanding beer selection.  What really sets this establishment apart from the pack, however, is the attention given to quality ingredient selection, and a strong commitment to "made from scratch" cooking.  There is one thing about this operation I am sure of, North Park's SYSCO and U.S. Foodservice reps will not be getting rich off of them anytime soon.

Hours: 5:30pm-11:30pm, Tuesday-Sunday

QUARTER KITCHEN

At The Ivy Hotel 600 F Street, San Diego (619) 814-2000

There has been a substantial amount of press coverage on San Diego's newest ultra-chic hotel, Ivy, and for good reason.  Rooms start at $450 a night.  There is an optional butler service.  Envy, the hotel's crazy-hip, multi level nightclub, features a fog screen entrance and cocktail waitresses clad in vinyl cat-suits.  Eden, the rooftop pool lounge, has an atmosphere that would fit right in at the Playboy Mansion.  There is even a temptation-driven specialty suite with king sized bunk beds, a fire pole, and a group shower.  With amenities such as these, it is easy to see why Ivy would create a media frenzy.  Conversely, not much has been written about this ninety-five plus million dollar venture's flagship restaurant, Quarter Kitchen.  Poised amidst such extravagant surroundings, it stands to reason that Quarter Kitchen's development would not have been neglected by its creators.  The culinary credentials of this establishment are amply satisfied by English-educated Executive Chef Damon Gordon.  Groomed in England's Michelin-Star kitchens early in his career, Gordon went on to head up restaurants for such epicurean luminaries as Alain Ducasse, Claude Troisgros and Jeffrey Chodorow.  The recent addition of local favorite, Nathan Coulon, as Executive Sous Chef has further bolstered the talent pool at QK.  After enjoying a private event on the premises, I was compelled to book a second visit on my own, in order to delve deeper into Quarter Kitchen's varied repertoire.

Upon entering the aesthetically stunning and spacious dining salon, guests are treated to innovative architecture and contemporary decor that is truly par excellence.

The restaurant features an exhibition style kitchen where it is possible to view the controlled chaos of culinary creation in all its glory.

   

My first experience at Quarter Kitchen involved a formal group function where-in these lovely young ladies were fortuitously chosen to be my tablemates.

Much to my surprise, the girls turned out to be sugar demons.  Towards the end of the meal, they laid down serious damage on the dessert portion of the menu, having voraciously ravaged through most of the offered items.

The following selections are from my two visits to Quarter Kitchen.  They are grouped by menu category, rather than chronologically. 

Amuse Bouche Miso Soup.

I am no expert on miso, (volumes have been written on the various forms of miso broths, soups, etc.), but I found this version approachable, flavorful, not too salty, and much to my liking.

Amuse Bouche Broccoli Soup.

This small soup was served piping hot.  The soup had an intense broccoli flavor that gained further depth and richness from a drizzle of fine, extra virgin olive oil.

Spicy Crab Soup with Crispy Spring Rolls and Chili Oil ($16).

This Thai influenced soup also came out of the kitchen steaming hot, a welcome and recurring theme.  It had a good, not too thick consistency, with flavor notes of lemon grass and coconut milk, as well as large, rich, chunks of tasty crab.  I am also happy to report that the soup possessed the appropriate level of heat, compliments of the chili oil, which really hit me in the back of my throat.  If you like spicy Thai soups, don't pass this one up.

Kitchen Sink Salad ($16).

I ordered this to get a feel for the salad portion of the menu.  It features marinated shrimp, lettuce hearts, crispy brie, hearts of palm, baby striped beets, jicama, pancetta, and house-made croutons, all topped with a sweet mustard dressing.  The shrimp were plump and flavorful, the deep fried brie was rich and decadent, and the mustard dressing made for the perfect finish.  There is enough going on in this salad to easily hold your interest, making it a great option as a good-sized starter, or a light meal. 

Caprese Salad ($14).

Heirloom tomatoes, with their inherent sweetness, proved to be the perfect foil for the tart fried green tomatoes.  Combine the tomatoes with fresh, flavorful buffalo mozzarella, fine extra virgin olive oil, then finish it all with a 25 year old aged balsamic vinegar, and you have the gold standard of Caprese Salads.

Caviar Tacos ($24).

A futuristic stand makes for an artistic presentation, causing this dish to be fun from the start.  These "taco shells" are created by pan frying thin slices of potato.  The filling consists of a mild horseradish cream, mixed with chives and finely diced red onions, all topped with American paddlefish roe.  These flavors play well off each other, with the potato, rich cream, and salty roe blending nicely.  Here, Chef Damon has conceived and implemented an excellent appetizer in both appearance and taste.  Beluga, osetra and sevruga aficionados that have not tried American paddlefish roe are missing out, as it is a delicious, affordable, and sustainable substitute for the world's dwindling supplies of caviar. 

BBQ Lamb Ribs ($16).

The marinated lamb ribs were flavorful on their own, but paired with Chef Damon's homemade BBQ sauce, they rose to a new level.  The sauce had a moderate sweetness, due in part to caramelized onions, and a bit of heat from what I believe was chipotle chilies in adobo.  The dish was also served with a moist, jalapeno corn muffin, which I used to finish off the delicious BBQ sauce.

Kobe By the Ounce Ishiyaki Style ($18 per ounce).

Chef Damon offers Kobe sirloin imported from Japan, off the menu on a daily basis, bless his British heart.  Service consists of a Japanese stone cooking grill, chopped shallots, two dipping sauces (ginger bud ponzu, and a soy sauce/black truffle oil vinaigrette), and the star of the show, thinly sliced, raw, Kobe sirloin.  Just look at the amazing marbling!

It was difficult to contain my excitement, as I used the supplied chopsticks to place my first slice on the scorching hot stone grill.

Overcooking meat of this caliber is certain to land you at the feet of old Beelzebub himself, so the cooking time should be confined to no more than five to ten seconds.  First piece to last, I was thoroughly impressed.  The meat was full of rich beefy flavor, and possessed an alluring sweetness.  I sampled a few pieces raw ("the true rare"), and they melted in my mouth.  Both sauces were excellent, my favorite having been the soy and black truffle oil vinaigrette, but using them with the Kobe is gilding the lily to some extent.  I ate most of my slices plain, after a quick sear on the stone.  Some may ask, "Is it worth the money, is it really that good?"  My answer is simply, "hell yes!"  It is not a matter of whether you should order this or not, but how many ounces you can afford to hoard, and savor for yourself.  I would visit Quarter Kitchen, if for no other reason than to revel in this luxurious delicacy. 

Grilled Asparagus with Parmesan ($8).

The pencil thin asparagus had been brushed with olive oil and grilled, which really brought out its natural flavors.  Large shavings of parmesano reggiano were layered on top, which added a rich and salty component.

Grilled Sea Bass with Herb Mushroom Risotto and Shellfish Foam($32).

The skin of the sea bass was crisped, while the flesh had been cooked to a juicy medium-rare.  The foam tasted like a seafood bisque, only much lighter, and nicely accented the mild flavor of the bass.  Execution of the risotto was perfect, which formed its signature creamy consistency, yet preserved the toothsome texture of the individual rice grains.  Chef Damon's Sea Bass entree caused my taste buds to jump for joy, and should not be missed by fish lovers.

Tempura Onion Rings ($8).

For me, even mediocre frozen restaurant supply onion rings are enjoyable, but the house-made version at Quarter Kitchen are exceptional.  The hand cut rings are dipped in tempura batter, and then fried to crispy perfection, leaving the onion moist and tender inside.  Served with its tasty aioli, I could make a meal out of these.

Veal Chop (14oz), ($38).

The menu is strong in the grilled meats department, and the veal chop is a prime example.  This beautiful, premium quality, generous cut was grilled to a perfect medium-rare, and served au jus with a scratch made hollandaise.  The tender meat possessed excellent flavor, and paired with the incredible hollandaise, was brilliant in its simplicity.

Fans of dessert will do well at Quarter Kitchen.  Intrigued by several of the many options, I decided to go old school with one of the three flambes, and chose the Hawai'ian Baked Alaska ($12).  Below, my dessert server is shown preparing for the flambe.

Fire in the hole!

The beautifully caramelized, finished product.

This dessert, made popular in the United States by New York City's iconic Delmonico restaurant in the 1870's, is given a tropical twist with mango ice cream and a Malibu Rum mango sauce.  The textural contrasts of the ice cream, coconut cake, and coconut meringue gave it a good mouth feel, and the tropical flavors were outstanding.  This is a fabulous dessert. 

The service at Quarter Kitchen is first-rate.  My skilled servers were in sync with the kitchen on delivery, which maddeningly, in many restaurants, is not the case.  The lead server, Gavin, even handled my laundry list of questions with aplomb.

Standing proudly on the ground floor of the uber-fabulous Ivy Hotel, Quarter Kitchen has a glamorous, indulgent feel.  Menu items, such as the Kobe sirloin by the ounce and the beluga caviar service, let diners know that they are partaking of something quite privileged.  Add to this the spectacular dining space, spot-on service, and top-notch chef Damon Gordon running a well-oiled culinary machine, and it becomes very clear why Quarter Kitchen in the Ivy delivers an over-the-top dining experience.  Go ahead, treat yourself, you deserve it!

Hours:

Sunday-Thursday 5:30pm-11pm

Friday and Saturday 5:30pm-12am

San Diego Restaurant Reviews

AVENUE 5 RESTAURANT & BAR

2760 5th Avenue Suite 100 San Diego (619) 542-0394

Fifth Avenue in Bankers Hill is currently undergoing a high-rise condominium building boom, destined to place this neighborhood firmly in the high rent category. Seemingly in sync with these developments, a contemporary fine dining restaurant and bar venture called Avenue 5 recently opened its doors in this newly burgeoning enclave. The brain child of local Uni High alum chums Chef & Proprietor Colin MacLaggan (Arterra, Bertrand at Mister A's, Mille Fleurs, Ole Madrid) and General Manager Nicolas Carbonne (Tapenade, Pasquale, Dakota Grill, Ole Madrid), Avenue 5 is the end product of a shared vision that has been fine-tuned throughout both of their professional lives.

The restaurants interior, created by designer Patricia MacLaggan, is composed of the  fashionable main dining area,

an enticing lounge,

and a well-appointed upscale bar, showcasing an immense antique mirror.

Avenue 5 features a seasonal menu, offering French-inspired American cuisine.  Dining options include ordering individual items a la carte, or indulging in a five course tasting menu ($70) with optional wine pairings (+$30) selected by Mr. Carbonne.  I had the latter with wine pairings, plus an additional appetizer to be described later. 

The initial table setup features Bread & Cie French baguette slices, butter, Evian water, and in my case, the first wine pairing.

My tasting menu began with Pesce Alle Erbe Aromatiche (Marinated Tuna in Aromatic Herbs, with Heirloom Tomatoes and Infused Oils).  Wine Pairing:  Sauvignon Republic Cellars 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley.

The presentation of this appetizer was stunningly attractive.  The infused oils were curry, parsley, and red bell pepper. All were nicely flavored, but the curry proved most dominant.  The tuna was ultra-fresh, and the tomatoes were peak of summer super sweet.  All in all, this was a refreshing summer starter.

Next came Seared Foie Gras with Pear Chutney, Hazelnuts, and a Sauternes Honey Reduction Drizzle.  Wine Pairing:  Royal Tokaji 2000, Hungary.

 

Those of you that are regular readers know of my penchant for foie gras, and this succulent rendition satisfied me on every level.  What stole the show however, was the accompanying chutney.  Chef MacLaggan's house-made version has large chunks of fresh pear, along with a bright, tart, and slightly sweet flavor profile.  All this is accomplished while managing to avoid that cloyingly sugar-syrupy component, often present in East Indian style chutneys.  I can tell you in all earnest that this extremely fresh chutney has ruined all others for me.  The resplendently rich Hudson Valley foie gras, roasted hazelnuts, and this amazing chutney make for an appetizer that is a must for all you duck and goose liver fans.

My additional appetizer was Wild Mushroom Tortellini with Grilled Sweet Corn, Champagne Grapes, and Madeira Broth (+$9).  Wine Pairing:  Mark West Winery 2006 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast.

Chef MacLaggan prepares the tortellini by hand every day.  The pasta has a perfect toothsome texture, and the filling of portobello and chanterelle mushrooms bound with marscapone cheese has a rich, earthy flavor.  The tortellini bask in a luxurious Madeira-cream broth with sweet corn tops, champagne grapes, mushrooms, and shaved parmesano reggiano.  Enjoyed all together, this offering was almost sensory overload, and when I was finished there was only my reflection left in the bowl. 

The entree fish course was Alaskan Halibut, Fricassee of Mussels, Clams, and Chorizo, on a bed of Bok Choy, in a Saffron Essence Stock.  Wine Pairing:  Silverado 2005 Chardonnay, Napa Valley.

Halibut is an unforgiving fish to prepare, as it can progress from undercooked to perfect to dried out in less than two minutes.  My fillet was spot on, and had a well developed golden brown crust which yielded to the moist and tender interior of the large-grained flesh.  The fresh mussels and clams, along with the zesty chorizo, added an original character to this entree.  The coup de grace was the saffron enhanced stock reduction with its full-bodied complexity, derived from a scratch-made aromatic fish fumet base.  The reduction was so good that, once again, I cleaned my plate (a re-occurring theme for me at Avenue 5).  I would not hesitate to order this entree again.

The fish was followed by New York Steak with Creme Fraiche Potato Puree, Onion Ring, Baby Arugula, Port Balsamic reduction, and a Porcini Vinaigrette.  Wine Pairing:  Tempranillo 2003 Riviola, Spain.

A closer look at the steak and onion ring.

 

Chef MacLaggan said he chose this "superior [baseball] cut" New York because of its flavorful, inherent fat ribbons, apparent in the slice below.

I liked everything about this offering.  Artistic plating, amazing beer battered onion ring (Chef, can I get two dozen to go?) smooth, rich potatoes, and tender, flavorful, perfectly sauced meat.  If you are a beef-eater, do not miss out on this course.

For dessert I chose the Cheesecake with Mint Leaves and Gooseberry.  Wine Pairing:  Taylor 20 Year Old Port (N/V)

It turns out that Chef MacLaggan is also a trained pastry chef, and calling his creation "cheesecake" doesn't do it justice.  Starting with a creme anglaise pooled in the bottom of a deep plate, he forms a base crust of pate sucree topped with a layer of caramelized pears.  For the next level, goat cheese, cream cheese, sour cream, and lemon juice are combined and baked, causing the mixture to set.  Finally, the top is bruleed, and then garnished with a sprig of mint and an Argentine gooseberry.  The different textures and flavors made for a great dessert.  Chef MacLaggan hit this one out of the park.

In keeping with their precepts, Chef MacLaggan and Mr. Carbonne have seen to it that Avenue 5 is devoid of the usual restaurant supply products found in many other establishments.  This fact was made abundantly clear when, during a tour of the kitchen, Chef MacLaggan pointed out his modestly sized freezer and quipped "I don't keep much in there."  This subtle but telling statement adroitly conveys an aspect which I love about this restaurant.  Everything at Avenue 5 is ultra-fresh and made from scratch on a daily basis. 

Avenue 5 has all the bases covered.  The dining environment is tasteful, attractive, and svelte.  Chef MacLaggan's kitchen produces inspired and delicious offerings, blending gorgeous presentations with complex flavor and textural interactions.  Service is adeptly supervised by hospitality guru Nick Carbonne.  In pooling their talents, experience, and passions, Colin MacLaggan and Nick Carbonne have brought their shared vision for Avenue 5 to fruition.  The resulting dining experience is one that should not be missed.

Hours:

Lunch Tuesday-Friday 11:30am-2:30pm

Dinner Daily 5:30pm-10pm

Closed Monday

San Diego Restaurant Reviews

AVENUE 5 GRAND OPENING PRIVATE PREVIEW EVENT

2760 5th Avenue, San Diego (619) 542-0394

This week I had the pleasure of attending the much heralded private premiere of Avenue 5, a sleek new Bankers Hill restaurant, featuring a seasonal menu of French-inspired American cuisine.  Amidst a sea of San Diego luminaries, Chef & Proprietor Colin MacLaggan and General Manager Nicolas Carbonne treated guests to complimentary drinks and appetizer tastes.  I sampled the following items while enjoying a live performance by members of the San Diego based B-Side Players.   

Deviled Quail Egg with Caviar on Roasted Pumpernickel Round, and Fingerling Potato Stuffed with Creme Fraiche.

Smoked Salmon on Toast Point with Cucumber and Dill, and Duxelles in Puff Pastry Shell.

Caramelized Onion Tart with Gruyere Cheese and Chives, and Marinated Ahi Tuna Tartare with Wasabi Roe on Waffle Chip.

Avenue 5's House Merlot.

Roasted Fig and Sweet Cream Wrapped in Prosciutto, and once again, The Ahi Tartare.

Everything that came out of the kitchen was a paradigm of elegant simplicity.  It's clear that Chef MacLaggan paid close attention to the flavor interaction of his chosen ingredients.  If this preview is any portent of what we have to look forward to from the full menu, Avenue 5 will provide a sumptuous fine dining experience.

BREAKING NEWS

Special News Bulletin

Just In:

This reporter has learned that Executive Chef Larry Abrams has left Bar West, and in the wake of this regrettable event, the menu has been left in shambles.  According to Bar West manager, Mindi Haley, "Chef Abrams cuisine was upscale, and this is Pacific Beach," indicating management felt that Abram's menu was ill suited to, what they perceive as, the establishment's unsophisticated clientele. Haley went on to inform me that Stingaree Executive Chef Antonio Friscia will be designing a new menu, which should be in place by the end of the month.  Upon obtaining the interim menu, which is primarily a small subset of the original, it was further divulged that, "we are currently using up existing food inventory." Stay tuned, there will be more on this to follow as the story evloves.

And there you have it.  This is Captain Jack with San Diego Restaurant Reviews signing off.

Cheers

OLDE CITY GRILL

967 Garnet Ave. San Diego (858) 483-4624

I am big fan of Philadelphia cheesesteak sandwiches, so when I discovered that a new purveyor, Olde City Grill, had opened on Garnet Avenue in Pacific Beach, no arm twisting or cajoling was required to ensure my prompt visitation.  The restaurant is co-owned by three enterprising east coast transplants, Kenny Casciato, Zach Cotler, and Chris Kelly.  This group has assembled a menu that offers a variety of items, including specialty cheesesteaks, hot and cold sandwiches, New York style pizzas, giant wings, meal size salads, and platters of french fries covered with all manner of ingredients, referred to as "dumpster plates."  I had high hopes for the cheesesteaks and pizzas, due in part to the owners combined east coast acumen, two hailing from Philly, and one from Brooklyn.    

Olde City Grill is located on the southern side of the busy block, between Bayard and Cass streets.  There is plenty of indoor seating,

and the restaurant's spacious outdoor patio provides the perfect spot to enjoy Pacific Beach's ever entertaining brand of people watching.

Eager to try Olde City's cheesesteaks and pizzas, I made time for two evening visits this past week.  First, we will turn our attention to the cheesesteaks. The menu contains a handy flow chart to help guide patrons through the quirky etiquette of the cheesesteak ordering process.

 

The American (Wagyu) top round Kobe beef, of course, immediately caught my attention.  I had not seen this type of beef used in Philly cheesesteaks before, so I ordered it, using the chart: 1. American Kobe beef, 2. 12 inch, 3. American cheese, 4. "Wit" grilled onions, 5. None ($8.75).

The first thing I notice in a sandwich is the bread, as anything short of great, fresh baked, goods is a deal-breaker for me.  At Olde City Grill, the owners' decision to fly in Amoroso rolls from Philadelphia has paid off, due to their signature moist, soft, springy, texture.  When it comes to these iconic sandwiches, there is some debate over whether they should be "wet" or "dry."  Most hard core Philly steak aficionados opine that a cheesesteak should leave your forearms drenched in juices and grease down to the elbows (obviously "wet"). They have even coined the term, "the Philly lean," referring to a technique wherein one leans towards the sandwich, to avoid ruining a long sleeve shirt.  I have always subscribed to this ideology.  When I hefted Olde City's version with two hands, I was immediately concerned, since it failed to emit any juices or grease. I worried that this cheesesteak would prove to be dry and unpleasant, as is often the case under these circumstances.  Surprisingly, my trepidation proved unfounded.  The Kobe beef was moist and juicy, not greasy or wet.  Flavor-wise, the Kobe was robustly beefy, luxuriously rich, and addictive.  Generally, the beef for cheesesteaks is prepped by slicing the meat very thin before grilling.  This Kobe Beef is so tender that they just throw a slab on the griddle, and cut it up into a fine grain as it is being cooked with nothing more than a spatula.  The American cheese had been melted into the meat on the griddle, binding it together with the sweet, grilled onions.  I must say, if you had told me I would really like a Philly cheesesteak that was not wet, I would have laughed.  My opinion has been changed.  The Kobe beef really makes a difference.  Old City Grill makes a great cheesesteak, albeit not wet, but excellent none the less. 

For my other sandwich, from the specialty steaks section of the menu, I ordered a 12 inch Cowboy Cheesesteak with American Kobe Beef, American Cheese, RedStar Barbecue Sauce, and Grilled Onions ($9.25).

 

Below is the cross section for your viewing pleasure.

 

The unique aspect of this sandwich is the addition of barbecue sauce.  Olde City uses RedStar BBQ sauce made right here in San Diego.  The Menu reads "local guys making great sauce," and the restaurant even sells bottles to go ($4.99).

The sauce's sweet, yet noticeably spicy profile enhanced the Kobe beef's flavor without overpowering it.  Grilled onions and cheese, as before, added good dimension, making for another delicious cheesesteak.

Sometimes there are menu items that you just have to order, even though you know you shouldn't.  This was the case with the 12 inch Triple Bypass with American Kobe Beef, Pepperoni, Italian Sausage, Meatballs, American Cheese, Cheese Wiz, and Grilled Onions ($12.00).

 

Another cross section.

 

The menu proudly boasts "Go ahead, call your doctor.  You can use our phone."  As amusing as I found all this, I was not sure how these ingredients would interact together, especially since I am not particularly fond of pepperoni (I know, sacrilege).  I was pleasantly surprised.  I won't sugar coat anything here, seriously rich doesn't begin to cover this offering.  That being said, the Triple Bypass tasted really good.  The preparation begins with the griddle master breaking up the meats and onions while grilling, after which he melts in the cheeses, and mixes everything together.

The result is a unique blend of flavors, enhanced further by the pepperoni, an ingredient I rarely enjoy.  I usually eat two 12 inch sandwiches for dinner, but thoughts of that flew out the window about halfway through the Bypass.  I finished it, but that bad boy was filling.

Olde City offers east coast style thin crust pizza as whole pies, or by the slice.

Intent on sampling several of the specialty slices, I started with the Aloha PB with Ham, Bacon, and Pineapple ($2.75).

New York style pizza is all about the crust.  Olde City's has a nice chew, good flavor, and does not exhibit soggy tendencies towards the center of the pie.  The Aloha had a generous amount of mozzarella, and the pineapple, ham, bacon combination made for an enjoyable, sweet and savory experience.

Next I opted for a slice of Barbecue Chicken with Red Onions, and RedStar BBQ Sauce ($2.75).

RedStar BBQ sauce is the real star here.  Olde City applies its sauces in a circular pattern on their pies, giving the slices their signature "tiger stripe" appearance.

I then selected the Buffalo Chicken with Blue Cheese Crumbles, and Buffalo Sauce ($2.75).

This pizza reminded me of eating Buffalo wings dipped in Blue cheese dressing.  If you like Buffalo wings you will like this pie's unique flavor.

Finally, I chose a slice of Pesto's Revenge with Artichoke Hearts, Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Garlic, and topped with Pesto ($2.75).

Full flavor is the calling card for this pizza.  There is a pervasive tangy component derived from the sun-dried tomatoes and artichoke hearts.  The pesto stripes add a fresh, herbal note.  This interesting pie is loaded with bright flavors that truly pop on the palate.

The owners also operate Sunset Italian Ice across from the roller coaster in Mission Beach.  They offer their homemade ices at Olde City as well.

My choice for dessert was a Large Watermelon Italian Ice ($4.00).

 

This ice was infused with an intense watermelon essence, tempered by an equally intense sweetness, which I liked.  One quart of watermelon puree is used to make one gallon of ice, resulting in a strong ice.  Be forewarned, the empty cup may not look that big, but after my server was done over-stuffing mine, it made for a sizable serving.

The Question remains, how did these transplanted entrepreneurs fair, producing two of my favorite east coast staples.  Their pizza has a quality crust, fresh toppings and cheeses, and a good selection of sauces, all offered in unique combinations with artistic presentations.  I still prefer pizza cooked in a wood fired oven, but that being said, Olde City creates a solid, thoroughly enjoyable product.  As far as their Philly cheesesteaks are concerned, it all comes down to the basic ingredients.  The American Kobe beef is cut fresh daily, and cooked to order in individual portions on the griddle.  This second point is important because it allows the meat to caramelize.  When high volume operations cook giant piles at once, the meat steams instead of being grilled, causing the outcome to be dubious at best (two famous Philadelphia institutions come to mind, but I won't name names).  When describing their preparation of the top round Kobe beef, Kenny stated that they don't even need to season it.  That is a testament to how much flavor is inherent in this meat.  When you take fresh Amoroso bread, tender, flavorful beef grilled to order, and a good selection of cheeses and toppings, you clearly have the formula for a great cheesesteak.  If you are passionate about Philadelphia cheesesteaks, like me, do yourself a favor and give Olde City Grill a try.

Hours:

Monday-Wednesday 11am-Midnight

Thursday-Saturday 11am-3am

Sunday 11am-Midnight

San Diego Restaurant Reviews

DELIRIO'S

5721 La Jolla Blvd. La Jolla (858) 456-5821

The Bird Rock neighborhood of La Jolla has undergone extensive redevelopment over the past several years.  Sections of La Jolla Boulevard were demolished, and completely rebuilt.  The area now boasts European style traffic circles, modern condominium complexes, and several new restaurant ventures, including Delirio's.  At the helm of this establishment's kitchen is Executive Chef Aaron La Monica, who previously worked under Michael Stebner's tutelage at both Nine-Ten and Region.  Chef La Monica has created a menu that marries California cuisine with Baja ingredients and flavors.  This struck me as an intriguing concept, so I recently visited Delirio's twice to get a feel for this style of fare.

Housed in the space that once hosted Cindy Black's, the front of the restaurant sports an intimate, candle lit bar area.

The attractive dining room features brick accents, mustard colored fabrics, and contemporary artwork.

Delirio's offers several dining options.  You can order entrees and appetizers individually, or select one of three tasting menus.  There is a three course Prix Fixe available Sunday through Thursday ($33), as well as the nightly five course "Trust the Chef" ($55), also offered with the addition of wine pairings ($75).  Jerome Astolfi is General Manager and Wine Director at Delirio's.  San Diego food acolytes may recognize Astolfi's name from his work at Nine-Ten, and more recently, as a member of the opening team for Jack's La Jolla.  On my second visit I asked Mr. Astolfi to select pairings for my various courses, to be noted at the appropriate points in this column.

The meal gets rolling with an ever-changing Amuse Bouche.

 

On this evening house-made tortilla rounds were topped with avocado cream, braised pork, cilantro, and goat cheese crumbles.  These made for tasty small bites, and I enjoyed the eye pleasing rectangular plate-ware.

Soon after, fresh french bread was served.

One item that caught my eye on the starters menu was Fritto Misto of Artichokes, Asparagus, Spring Onion, and Zucchini, served with Meyer Lemon, and Chipotle Aioli ($8).  Wine Pairing: Piesporter Riesling Spatlese 2004, Germany.

 

The perfectly battered and fried vegetables were great alone, and even better with a squeeze of lemon, and a dip in the velvety, slightly smoky, aioli.

Of the two salads offered, I chose Baby Greens with Radish, Avocado, Blood Orange, and Goat Cheese ($9).

The tart blood oranges faced off well with the rich avocado and goat cheese flavors.

I also ordered Grilled Octopus with Salsa Verde, Olives, and Grilled Potato ($10).

 

Grilled octopus has the propensity to be tough and chewy, but my fears were allayed.  The flesh was incredibly tender, and the excellent caper studded salsa was the perfect condiment.  Octopus lovers should not miss this. 

Another starter that drew my attention was the House-Made Chorizo with Basted Egg and Parmigiano Reggiano ($9).

Chef La Monica created the Salumi Program at Region, and the skills he acquired in that endeavor were apparent in this appetizer.  The succulent sausage was skillfully spiced, and its heat was cleverly tempered by the soothing egg yolk.  This might be the best chorizo I have ever had, making it another big winner from the starter list. 

An appetizer I ordered on both of my visits was the Short Ribs Mole with Gremolata ($15).  Wine Pairing: Hug Cellars Zinfandel 2005, Paso Robles.

In this version, the ribs were plated on a bed of new potatoes.  I was pleased to find that the short ribs were falling apart tender, a welcome quality after a recent unpleasant experience at a different high end restaurant.  I truly love a good mole, and Chef La Monica's rendition did not disappoint.  It had an engaging spice complexity, with a firm chocolate component.  The richness of the mole was well cut by the zesty gremolata.  Deliro's short ribs are an exceptional appetizer, and a must for any mole fan.  This dish is sometimes served with a mushroom risotto.

While the version with the new potatoes made for a more striking presentation, I could not help but miss Chef La Monica's perfect risotto, creamy, toothsome, and full flavored.

An entree special offered one night was Yukon River Salmon with New Potatoes, Haricot Vert, Dill, and Horseradish Cream ($24).

The ultra fresh salmon was cooked to a moist, medium rare.  I really enjoyed its bold flavor with the smooth horseradish cream, crisp beans, and soft potatoes.

Another featured special was the Main Diver Scallops with Maitake, Beech, Porcini, and Chanterelle Mushrooms, Grilled Asparagus, and finished with a Beurre Blanc (Market).  Wine Pairing: Dalton Estate Chardonnay 2004, Russian River.

These diver scallops had just the right sear, which developed a beautiful caramelized crust, yet preserved the buttery texture of their interiors.  The beurre blanc heightened the taste experience without detracting from the flavor of the scallops.  The unusual combination of exotic mushrooms took this dish over the top, making for an outstanding offering. 

A regular on the entree list is the Brant New York Steak with Cremini Mushrooms, Braised Greens, and a Chocolate Cabernet Sauce ($30).

My steak was cooked to a juicy medium-rare, and possessed the beefy flavor you'd expect from a good New York cut.  The chocolate cabernet reduction did a nice job of enhancing the flavor of the meat.  Beef lovers take note, this is the entree for you.

On my second visit I ordered  the Brant New York Steak with Morel Mushrooms, Braised Greens, Pickled Onions, and Twelve Year Old Balsamic Vinegar ($30).  Wine Pairing: Chateau Ht Barreyre Bordeaux 2005, France.

Having enjoyed the steak so much on my first visit, I could not resist trying it again with my beloved morel mushrooms.  This preparation had more of an acidic note, but the robust steak easily held its own with the vinegar and pickled onions.  I actually preferred the chocolate cabernet to the balsamic vinegar, but in the end, the extravagant morels carried the day, as this incarnation proved to be my favorite of the two.

Another entree I just had to try was the Duroc Pork Porterhouse with Caponata, Achiote, Fennel Pollen, Squash Blossom, and Salsa Verde ($27).

Duroc pork has reddish flesh, and much more marbling than regular pork.  My big chop had been marinated, and cooked to a perfect medium, which left it flavorful and bursting with juices (thats right folks, slamming heritage pork by overcooking is an equivalent sin to cooking USDA prime beef well done).  The caponata, fried squash blossom, achiote, and parsley flavored salsa all joined together to give this dish a complex personality.  This is an excellent entree that should not be missed.

My motto is "never pass on the cheese cart," so when dessert time arrived, it was the cheese plate for me.  The cheeses were Roaring Forties Blue, Pecorino Ginepro, and Clochette.  Accompaniments were dates, strawberries, honeycomb, and pickled onions.  Wine Pairing: Chateau Cosse Sauternes 2005, Bordeaux, France.  Suffice it to say, my dessert experience was luxurious.

Delirio's has a lot to offer the restaurant enthusiast.  The intimate and well-appointed dining room provides a relaxing setting for a fine meal.  Wine aficionados can experience some brilliant pairings if, as I suggest, they put themselves in Jerome Astolfi's most capable hands.  The service under his watchful eye is knowledgeable, professional, prompt, yet inobtrusive.  When it comes to the food, Chef La Monica has created a menu that is fresh and exciting.  By combining California cuisine with the exhilarating flavors of Baja, Deliro's has adroitly distinguished itself from other area fine dining establishments.  Incorporating high quality ingredients, flawless execution, and unique flavor profiles, Delirio's brings cuisine that is original and innovative to the San Diego dining scene.

Hours:

Friday, Saturday 6pm-10pm

Sunday 6pm-9pm

Monday Closed

Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday 6pm-9:30pm

Happy Hour 5pm-7pm

San Diego Restaurant Reviews

MARKET RESTAURANT + BAR

7330 Via De La Valle, Del Mar (858) 523-0007

San Diego experienced a fine dining renaissance in 2006, and early 2007.  I previously referred to this batch of restaurant openings as "the bumper crop," and included Market Restaurant & Bar in that group.  Residing in the building which previously housed Black Horse Grill, Market is a collaboration between Executive Chef Carl Schroeder (previously at Arterra), and Cafe 222 owner, Terryl Gavre.  Hoping to harvest another winner from "the crop," like 1500 Ocean, or The Dining Room at Jack's, I ventured into North County to see for myself.

Arriving at Market on a mid-week night, I was promptly seated in the dining room, where Terryl Gavre's tasteful and creative interior design provided a comfortable and pleasing environment.  My server, Roger, greeted me with menu in hand, and took my drink order. 

Shortly thereafter, a strawberry and watercress amuse bouche in Chinese soup spoons was served.

This amuse bouche was ideal for cleansing my palate.  I was then given a generous basket of fresh bread and corn muffins.

The muffins were sweetly addictive, and the bread had a crisp crust with a pleasingly soft interior.  Along with the bread, I was served an attractive Starter Salad

that consisted of asparagus spears, fresh peas, watercress, and croutons.

From the list of starters, I chose the French Spring Onion Soup with a Duck Confit and Caramelized Onion Grilled Cheese Sandwich ($8.75).

The full-bodied duck confit went well with the concentrated flavor of the soup, which had a touch of sweetness from the spring onions.  The soup & sandwich combination was tasty, nostalgic, and fun.

Again from the starters section, I ordered Fromager D' Affonois Ravioli with Bolognese sauce, Wild Arugula, and Arbequina Olive Oil ($11.25).

This dish, with its buttery triple cream brie filling, shaved parmigiano-reggiano, meaty ragu, and ample drizzle of olive oil, was seriously rich.  Even though I enjoyed the exotic ravioli, I found the bolognese sauce to be pedestrian, unlike the version I recently enjoyed at Bar West.

Being careful not to satiate my appetite on starters, it was time to move on to entrees.  I selected Alaskan Halibut with Green Garlic Risotto Cake, Chorizo-Snow Pea Salad, and a Saffron Shellfish Emulsion ($26.50).

My palate was treated to a whirlwind of textures and flavors with this original offering.  Perfectly cooked halibut provided a canvas for the unusual and delicious chorizo-snow pea salad, risotto cake, and saffron emulsion.  This was an excellent dish that showcased Chef Schroeder's imaginative style.

I followed the halibut with Milk Fed Veal Two Ways ($29.50).

The two ways were: strudel (left), and scaloppini.  The lightly battered scaloppini was cooked to crispy perfection, served with a delicious cream sauce, and topped with roasted artichokes.  The strudel featured tender braised veal covered in a pastry-like jacket, served with fresh sweet peas, and finished with demi-glace.  Veal two ways is another outstanding entree which I would not hesitate to order again.

My final main course choice was the Cabernet Braised Prime Beef Ribs with Sweet Onion-Potato Puree, Sherry Glazed Cipollini Onions, and Spring Vegetable Roast ($33.50).

I ordered this entree, in part, due to a number of glowing recommendations the braised beef ribs had received locally.  On my visit to Market, however, these accolades proved to be unfounded.  While I liked the sweet onion-potato puree and the spring vegetable roast, the beef itself was unpleasantly stringy, and the cabernet braising liquid reduction was absurdly salty.  For me, this was just braised beef ribs gone bad.

Having seen positive reviews on Pastry Chef James Foran's work at Arterra, I saved room to sample his desserts. My first selection was the Chocolate Tasting ($9.00).

The plating of this dish was quite artistic.  The tart had an intense chocolate flavor, the macaroon was tender and delicious, and the shake, delightful and refreshing.  I thoroughly enjoyed this study in chocolate, despite my not being a chocoholic.

I also ordered the Banana & Rum Tres Leches Cake ($9.00).

This was a bit more of a mixed bag.  I liked the caramel and fried plantain, but found the cake to be dry, and not as flavorful as I had hoped.

In principle, I appreciate what Market is trying to do.  The menu changes daily, in order to feature the highest quality ingredients available that morning.  This noble mission can, however, prove to be risky.  With menu items constantly changing, a kitchen has the potential to be more uneven.  This appears to be the case with Market, as the offerings that I sampled ran the gamut from innovative and excellent, to uninspired and poorly executed.  If improvement is made in the area of consistency, Market can attain its rightful place at the pinnacle of San Diego's fine dining scene, because when Chef Schroeder is on his game, the results are truly remarkable.

Hours: 5:30pm Nightly

San Diego Restaurant Reviews